[How To] TDCI Timing Belt Replacement - 2.0L QXBA DW10 140PS

[rondeo]

Although blue means removeable with hand tools, at least in some brands:


https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/...adlockers.html

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

Have you pointed them to these forums yet?


Endura has been discontinued in Australia from the end of this year, so you'd need to get in quick.
https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news...ps-endura-2020
Although in your case Bundy, I suppose you'd be looking for a used-car bargain rather than new, so no rush on it (it wasn't a big seller though so supply on the used market is probably going to be constrained)?

Bugger.....

Unfortunately, the fleet companies never really took up the Endura, so very few coming through second hand.

I guess a diesel Escape could fill the gap, but i'm not sure I'd fit in one. I want something with a little more ground clearance, due to my rough driveway and the occasional run in with roadkill.

[drittfiske]

Posting for anyone still searching for info on this.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, and to cobrin for his amazing how to https://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v...articleid=1718

After 11 hours I've just completed the job on a 2012 LW Focus. Not sure how the Focus engine bay compares to the Mondeo but it was a **** of a job, especially the starter motor as everyone has said.

Tools/parts:

I ordered the parts from Trodo.com. Never heard of them prior to this but the order arrived from Europe (Poland I think) in under a week.

Water Pump & Timing Belt Set SKF VKMC 03205 40_VKMC_03205 1 €88.23
Shaft Seal, crankshaft ELRING 393.990 11_393_990 1 €9.77
Shipping & Handling €45.90
Grand Total €143.90 ($224AUD)

I got a Gates Micro-V 6PK1245 $55AUD from Repco (could have ordered this from Trodo for $23AUD but forgot).

Also bought the timing lock kit from Catch.com.au of all places. It was $50 adn shipping took 2 weeks (pretty sure it was sitting at Heathrow waiting to be sent as a bulk Catch shipment as the seller dispatched within a couple of days).
AB Tools Engine Timing Locking Setting Kit For Peugeot Ford Rover Volvo 2.0 + 2.2LD

Got a 600mm breaker bar and 600mm extension bar for the dreaded crankshaft bolt.

I also needed to run to Bunnings to get an 11mm spanner/wrench for one of the water pump nuts that is a combo nut/bolt. A 16mm spanner/wrench would have come in handy for the timing belt idler but a shifting spanner did the job and saved me a second trip to Bunnings.

Methodology:
If you follow cobrin's how-to and use one of Alan Howatt's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACXiKbkXhvM
or any others that you find you'll have all the info you need. Alan has a few so you can look at a couple to get different ideas.

Extra tips that helped me:
Removing the starter motor is step 1 and it's the hardest step. If you can get it free you're halfway there. It has three bolts that screw directly into the starter motor housing and they're almost impossible to see or get a socket onto. I got the bottom two from under the car and the top one from the top, but I had to remove the intake pipe and push it to the drivers side of the car to get some access, as well as moving cables and other bits and pieces out of the way as much as possible. Once the bolts are remove the starter still didn't want to come completely free of the housing but I managed to pry it enough to clear it and tuck it out of the way as much as possible towards the radiator. Getting it back in position later was also a struggle. Again, this was not a fun time.

Getting the flywheel pin in seems impossible first time. There's no room to work and it's a super tight fit. I sanded down the pin to make it a slightly easier fit. It goes in about 20mm once fully in. I used some marker paint on the flywheel to make it easier to find the right spot later on when you need to lock it again. Worked a treat.

The flywheel locking kit is also a pain. I used the bolts from the intake pipe and a couple of nuts I had that fit to secure the locking plate to the starter motor holes and getting the bolts and nuts on was just as much screwing around as getting the starter motor bolts out.

Once you've got this done getting the auxiliary belt off is easy. Pull down on it as hard as you can and jam a small allen key into the tensioner wheel lockout hole. Once the tensioner wheel is locked out the belt is easy to get off and on.

Remove the timing covers. The top one is a very tight squeeze to get out on the Focus. I tore some of the foam gasket getting it out (and back in later). Patched it up as good as I could.

Make sure you heat up the crankshaft bolt to free up the loctite or whatever insanity is used. I used a $6 blow torch from Supercheap for a couple of minutes. Even with the breaker bar it was tight, and I held my breath until it was fully out. If it had snapped I might have just set fire to the garage and called it a day.

Once the timing belt tensioner wheel was off I pinned the cam wheel. There was no point pinning it prior to this as it didn't quite line up. Once it was pinned off came the belt. Getting the new one on wasn't as easy, but first the water pump.

About 6L of coolant came out with the pump. A bucket caught most of it. Cleaned the surface and on with the new pump. Because I'm tight I filtered the coolant and chucked it back in later (also because I only changed the coolant a year ago).

On with the tensioner and idler wheels, then the timing belt. When putting on the timing belt only put it half on the cam sprocket, tensioner and idler wheels. It makes it just a tiny bit easier to get it onto the water pump and crankshaft sprockets. Once it's half on all sprockets you can push it on fully. Even doing this it's a tight fit.

Follow cobrin's instructions for verification that you're not smashing valves into pistons, then reassemble everything. If you have any nuts or bolts leftover head straight to Facebook and move it on lickety split. It was time for an upgrade anyway.

If you want to borrow the locking kit I'm in Footscray. I'm happy to talk you through the job in person and whilst I'll lend you the kit I won't be going near another timing belt for at least 10 years.

[cobrin]

Hey great work drittfiske, thanks for posting your experience. Nice when it's all said and done, especially when you can get on with enjoying the car knowing it's squared away.


nice work...

[AlanM]

Just did this on mine, pretty straightforward following these instructions and various YouTube videos.

Used a heat gun on the crankshaft pulley bolt and it came out with an electric rattle gun.

The hardest bit was figuring out the routing for the accessories belt. That thing's like 6 feet long! Should have drawn a "map" first.

Anyway thanks for the thread and all the advice, it's nice to know that's taken care of for another 200,000km!

[love3k]

What is the difference between a flywheel locking pin and a ring gear locking tool?

[goz007]

1/ flywheel locking pin(incorrectly named i.m.o) this pin is used to time the crankshaft in the correct phase/position to align crankshaft, camshaft & H.P.F.P all these components need to be timed correctly for the engine to run at its prime & as the manufacturer has designed it(so i.m.o it's a crankshaft timing pin).....1 or 2 deg deflection or miss alignment of the crankshaft to the other 2 components is massive for a diesel engine & in the end will start giving problems (fault codes, poor performance & smoke ,poor fuel economy , possible cooling system issues etc,ect) the H.P.F.P also requires to be timed correctly when removed(some common rail H.P.Ps do & some don't, on the M.D Mondeo it does-im not sure about the previous models but I'll assume they do consider they are from a very similar engine family)the engine will run with the H.P.P not timed correctly & the engine(provided crankshaft to camshaft timing is correct will run as it was designed)the problem here is that when not timed correctly the phasing on the pump is off & the engine because of the extra stress off the incorrect phasing will eventually strip the teeth off the cambelt & that will in turn introduce pistons to valves & become a costly exercise.....anyway this pin will pin the crankshaft in the correct position for the camshaft pin to be inserted & complete the timing of the engine for a cam belt replacement (yes people will P!55 on not having to pin the crankshaft & about white paint pen marks & marking flywheel teeth-yes done it plenty of times myself, but u are taking a risk & it's not the correct way to do the job or the way the engine manufacturer recommended the job to be done)
2/flywheel/ring gear locking tool as the name suggests is just that.....starter motor is removed,then engine is turned over for the pins to be inserted in the crankshaft & camshaft for cam belt replacement, once the pin is inserted in the crankshaft the flywheel locking tool is then bolted into the spot were the starter motor is removed from for locking the crankshaft in position,this locking tool will allow you to remove & fit front pulley on the crankshaft(front pulley bolt is under extreme tension & is torque to yield & is a 1 tension only bolt-once tension is removed from it it is significantly weakened & should be replaced)

[love3k]

Originally Posted by goz007

1/ flywheel locking pin(incorrectly named i.m.o) this pin is used to time the crankshaft in the correct phase/position to align crankshaft, camshaft & H.P.F.P all these components need to be timed correctly for the engine to run at its prime & as the manufacturer has designed it(so i.m.o it's a crankshaft timing pin).....1 or 2 deg deflection or miss alignment of the crankshaft to the other 2 components is massive for a diesel engine & in the end will start giving problems (fault codes, poor performance & smoke ,poor fuel economy , possible cooling system issues etc,ect) the H.P.F.P also requires to be timed correctly when removed(some common rail H.P.Ps do & some don't, on the M.D Mondeo it does-im not sure about the previous models but I'll assume they do consider they are from a very similar engine family)the engine will run with the H.P.P not timed correctly & the engine(provided crankshaft to camshaft timing is correct will run as it was designed)the problem here is that when not timed correctly the phasing on the pump is off & the engine because of the extra stress off the incorrect phasing will eventually strip the teeth off the cambelt & that will in turn introduce pistons to valves & become a costly exercise.....anyway this pin will pin the crankshaft in the correct position for the camshaft pin to be inserted & complete the timing of the engine for a cam belt replacement (yes people will P!55 on not having to pin the crankshaft & about white paint pen marks & marking flywheel teeth-yes done it plenty of times myself, but u are taking a risk & it's not the correct way to do the job or the way the engine manufacturer recommended the job to be done)
2/flywheel/ring gear locking tool as the name suggests is just that.....starter motor is removed,then engine is turned over for the pins to be inserted in the crankshaft & camshaft for cam belt replacement, once the pin is inserted in the crankshaft the flywheel locking tool is then bolted into the spot were the starter motor is removed from for locking the crankshaft in position,this locking tool will allow you to remove & fit front pulley on the crankshaft(front pulley bolt is under extreme tension & is torque to yield & is a 1 tension only bolt-once tension is removed from it it is significantly weakened & should be replaced)

When I replace the timing belt, can I just use the flywheel pin to hold the flywheel in place? Without the ring gear pin tools?

[goz007]

That's up to you....but me personally I would not.

[Citroënbender]

If it moves (bends) a little, the pin/rod might become very stuck.

[goz007]

Yep correct Citroen...also means your timing will be out when the new belt takes tension

[love3k]

Is there a tool for installing the oil seal? How far should the oil seal be pressed in?

[Citroënbender]

There is often a shoulder in the seal recess, to stop the seal going in any further. If not, a typical setting is just a fraction inside of the surrounding metal.

To fit the seal, it’s usually safest to press in gently, if you use a hitting method you’ll need to find a cylindrical item that’s extremely close (maybe 1,5-2mm smaller in diameter) and very gentle taps to avoid shocking the garter spring out of position. Aside from dedicated tools and comprehensive seal installation kits, we use old disc brake pistons, cam tunnel bearings, bits of boiler pipe - whatever is close in size. Take care to set the seal in squarely.