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12-05-2008, 02:38 PM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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Gday
Any one done a AU 4ltr timming chain cover removal for an oil leak repair,my wagon is starting to leak abit/alot between the head and the timming cover and looking at the haines manual,its a radiator,crank pulley,sump,engine mount,alternator a/c compressor off/out job. :togo: :togo: :togo: Surly its not that in depth is it.????????????
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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12-05-2008, 03:05 PM | #2 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Dunno man.mine leaks as well.I am going to try and wing it.Degreaser and then silicone the leaking area..
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12-05-2008, 07:26 PM | #3 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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Quote:
If I have to go to the trouble of pulling all the accessories off,plus the sump,and radiator and unbolt the engine mounts,I may as well remove the engine and do every seal with it on the stand. 240k engine is it worth doing?????????
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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12-05-2008, 07:39 PM | #4 | ||
Smile
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Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Nar man dont go to far.I fixed mine.Remove the belt,steeing pump ..do the correct procedure to remove the tensioner then chuck thread locker with silicone on the threads.It will fixit.
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13-05-2008, 11:00 AM | #5 | |||
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,403
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Quote:
It might just be your tensioner on the side of the engine. I makes it look like it leaks from around the front ... it makes a hell of a mess and hard to find the leak usually. I went on Stav's advice ages ago for this and it sorted it ... fingers crossed it is the same for you.
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13-05-2008, 12:30 PM | #6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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Quote:
thank you
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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12-05-2008, 07:54 PM | #7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
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12-05-2008, 11:29 PM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: perth w.a
Posts: 1,074
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most just leak from the timing cover bolts so if ya just remove em one at a time clean them up and refit them with some sealant on the threads im pretty sure youl be fine hey ill fixed heaps of them doing this also check the chain tension bolt as well they also leak as does the front crank seal...its pretty rare for the actual gasket to be replaced....
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09-06-2008, 12:23 AM | #9 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Mate ..I degreased mine ..siliconed it and its been fine. Fixing these probs can be a can of darn worms..
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26-08-2008, 07:58 PM | #10 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
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what grease did you use?
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26-08-2008, 08:56 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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yep,did it on my wagon,any grease is ok I use castrol PD2,or EP2 what ever was in the shed at the time,you just need to lubricate the lips otherwise they will burn/wear prematurely.You need to push the seal back in using the the crank bolt and spacer other wise its abit testing trying to get it started and square.
Are you sure its the front main seal though stav,mine turned out after doing all this to be the timming cover mount screws up the top and the oil was spitting/running down on to the timming casing making it look like it was the front main!!!!!! If you have your doubts do it any way as I said not a major job in my books anyway. Ha Ha yeh,mine is about to click over to 250k this week, and I think I better do the fuel pump,as she's missing abit on idle on fuel for a while on gas its fine
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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26-08-2008, 09:07 PM | #12 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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I wish it was my timing case.Yep my first leak was my front power steering bolt and it needed alot of silicone to stop it. Next leak..loose timing case bolt.
Tommorow I may have a quick look behind my belt tensioner to see if there is a leak at the timing case. I had the head reinstalled at a dodgey wrecking yard which compromised the engine.It has little leaks which I am sealing slowly.If the car stops...then Il fix it.For now I hate the oil on my driveway.Not much but enough to make my steciling look ugly. What spacer did you use man?
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27-08-2008, 07:22 AM | #13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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It was about a 60mm 3/4 drive socket,it works perfectly with a long bolt in the from of the crank,dont forget to emery/sand/rough up the groove in the crank from the original oil seal.
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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27-08-2008, 08:59 AM | #14 | ||
Sly like a G6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Hunter Valley Whine Country
Posts: 1,808
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I went to fix what I thought was a leaking timing chain tensioner the other day. On the way I found out that a workshop I used to trust had completely stripped the thread on the timing case where the lowest bolt shown goes. Oil was running out when I took the power steering bracket off.
It's the one with all the copper RTV around it BTW! Does anyone know if there is enough metal in the timing case to put a Helicoil in?
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The Frankenfalcon... AU1.5 Wagon, BA brakes, AU2 booster, BA2 XR6T engine, stock from airbox to turbo, 8psi/98 octane tune 240RWKW, BF XR6T cat, quiet 3" zorst, Pex BSO660 & BSO439 mufflers, 84 db, built BTR box, 3.08 LSD, Emer SVI LPG, AU1 XR8 alloys, Momo wheel, JVC KDR746BT head unit, Aerpro steering wheel control wiring. Sleeper, anyone? |
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27-08-2008, 11:16 AM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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sly,yep thats the same bolt mine was leaking(one of the times anyway) your drilling into the block there not the case/alluminiun cover if you use a helicoil yes you can do it but DONT drill too far in as you'll drill into to no 1 cyl bore.
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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27-08-2008, 12:55 PM | #16 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Thats where mine leakt. When bolting it in it strips the thread alright.I would be defensive to helicoil as there may be a chance of dropping something into the engine wont it?
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Stingray Car Security ph 0414445444 Single din radio fascias for fg to fgx fords Australia wide . FG 1 2 and 3 gauge holder in stock now! https://stingraycar.com.au/shop/ Site Sponsor See Sponsor Stingray Car Security 😍👌✌ AU wagon 6 14.241@96.75 1/4 mile sold.Octane fg xr6 turbo!! 12.312 112.21 mph home tune f6 injectors gone ..now in nitro fgxr6t ready to go again |
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27-08-2008, 04:15 PM | #17 | ||
Sly like a G6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Hunter Valley Whine Country
Posts: 1,808
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So if it won't seal properly I'll need a new block... any other options?
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The Frankenfalcon... AU1.5 Wagon, BA brakes, AU2 booster, BA2 XR6T engine, stock from airbox to turbo, 8psi/98 octane tune 240RWKW, BF XR6T cat, quiet 3" zorst, Pex BSO660 & BSO439 mufflers, 84 db, built BTR box, 3.08 LSD, Emer SVI LPG, AU1 XR8 alloys, Momo wheel, JVC KDR746BT head unit, Aerpro steering wheel control wiring. Sleeper, anyone? |
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27-08-2008, 05:21 PM | #18 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,802
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Quote:
A little trick I did with where your bolt is leaking is put an o-ring on the bolt with silicone. after you've repaired the thread that is
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T2 TE50 no:154 Narooma blue AU2 XR8 ute XR4 fiesta |
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19-11-2013, 06:32 PM | #19 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 111
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Hi everyone. Put 60 k/km engine in au, got massive oil leaks! 2 litres in 2 weeks, barely driving also! Just when it gets up top, gonna do the clean, silicone, tensioner o rings, thread locker, I was playing around with old engine today, is it fine, to lock un lock cam tensioner with finger? Mine fits, lol does it sit on the last step not fully removed, in correct position? Why can't you remove outer thread nut without locking full ninety degree as in full lock position, new engine w.a.p.i.t.***! thanks, are not fords fun, like there aren't better ways to enjoy life!
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19-11-2013, 07:23 PM | #20 | ||
Missing a sock...
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brisbane 4017
Posts: 8,250
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http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11336109
Also I think Whoosha did a photo essay when he did his son's AU - I can't find it. Use the advanced search function. Doesn't look like a pleasant job, but then what is these days? Cheers!
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19-11-2013, 08:13 PM | #21 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,915
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My 'how to' stopped my leaks but I wasn't losing anything like 2 litres in 2 weeks. It is a bugger, I was thinking to run some chalk lines in different places to see if I could track were most of the leak was coming from before I found Whoosa how to. You might need to try that at different heights etc to see where your is coming from.
Good luck UK
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19-11-2013, 09:47 PM | #22 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Keep in mind that the cam sensor has an o ring on it as well. It will look like a crank seal gone bad. But that amount of oil, may well be the tensioner if the leak is around the front of the engine.
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27-11-2013, 12:04 PM | #23 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 111
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Thanks all, is timing cover top of tensioner plug and side,right between block and tensioner port, hell of a place! 10 times cleaning and siliconing, fed up sheesh, about to put old engine in! did tensioner Oring, thread tape, silicone vct idler pouring out of their? How does that work ? Odd. Slathered with gasket goo, lol if not working might try metal putty, or remove and fix properly jus my luck ! Should of done it prior! Word from the not so wise 4 litres of oil in my local spots, let alone my drive way <- fords new symbol
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