More help needed...

bindi · 03-08-2005, 07:25 PM

Ok all,

Unbelievable but true, the transmission that we got put in just over 3 months ago is dying. Yes it was 2nd hand cos at the time we needed it quick and cheap.

Now we have a bit of money spare and are thinking whether to put in a reco'd auto (it's a 3 speed atm) or if it would be worth putting in a 5 speed.

Question Time - ALL APPROXIMATES:
1) How much would it cost for the box (either auto or 5sp)?
2) How much would installation cost?
3) How long would it take to do the job?
4) Where would be a good, reliable place in the Sydney area to take it to to get this all done? I no longer trust the wrecker we originally took it to.

Ta guys, any info is handy.

Also, is it easier to put in a 4 speed auto or a 5 speed manual?

I am pushing for the manual

EFFalcon · 03-08-2005, 07:42 PM

easier to put in a 5 speed.
4 speed involves a lot more wiring work.

bindi · 03-08-2005, 07:45 PM

That's what I thought, John... I have been reading stuff on here and I remember something about it's easier to put in a 5 sp manual from a 3 spd rather than a 4 spd auto too...

Woohoo, might end up gettin a manual

Simmo · 03-08-2005, 07:58 PM

you should be able to pick up a full conversion kit for between $1-1,500. check out better wreckers or possibly interstate. im getting all my gear from a bloke in melbourne.

BuuBox · 03-08-2005, 08:09 PM

The cheapest option by far would be picking up another 3 speeder, perhaps from someone on here rather than a dodgy mechanic. I never had a problem with the same transmission in an XF, doing a hell of a lot of kilometers with hardly a service. Are you running a transmission cooler? You probably don't want to spend another 1.5k after the other things on the car!

EFFalcon · 03-08-2005, 08:12 PM

i think you'll easily find a conversion kit for a lot less then that.
but getting it fitted is another issue.

bindi · 03-08-2005, 08:35 PM

Yeah the fitting is the issue...

Look the problem with the box atm is that when the car is cold and you first start driving. It slips between neutral and drive. It seems you have to start it, let it idle for 5 minutes, then turn it off for 5 minutes, then you can drive.

Any ideas?

bindi · 04-08-2005, 12:39 PM

Update... hubby took it to a trans guy near his work.

The guy said "It's dead - there is a burning smell, the fluid's low" etc etc.

Hubby's now discussing 5 spd manual options... What do you have to do to the computer when you change it over?

InitialD · 04-08-2005, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bindi

Update... hubby took it to a trans guy near his work.

The guy said "It's dead - there is a burning smell, the fluid's low" etc etc.

Hubby's now discussing 5 spd manual options... What do you have to do to the computer when you change it over?

being a Series 1 EA, nothing what-so-ever. only series 2 EA's onwards had "MANUAL ECU's" as such, mainly cause the 4 speed auto's had a different ECU.

you dont need to change the ecu ;)

The MaDDeSTMaN · 04-08-2005, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InitialD

being a Series 1 EA, nothing what-so-ever. only series 2 EA's onwards had "MANUAL ECU's" as such, mainly cause the 4 speed auto's had a different ECU.

you dont need to change the ecu ;)

Hehehe, exactly like I said to you Bindi, good to know I'm learning and not wrong at least some of the time!

Good luck with it all, let us know what ends up happening

04-08-2005, 01:01 PM

You may have contaminents in your cooler or transmission lines from your old transmission.Did you flush out cooler with new fluid?

bindi · 04-08-2005, 01:05 PM

Excellent, no ECU stuff

Have no idea what was done as far as the old trans... I know that when my mechanic did the rego inspection he found trans hoses kinked.

Damo · 04-08-2005, 05:12 PM

my 5 speed conversion cost $600, but there were a few little bits missing, and i've sinced replaced the clutch and flywheel, so all up i've spent $1000 now, did the work with the help of my brother and Sundeep.

As others have said, it's very simple, just need wire up reverse lights (which i havn't done yet) the rest is just plug and play :P.

ilsautomotive · 04-08-2005, 05:48 PM

I bought mine (er Damos?) for about $700 I think and installation was $300 at my then mechanic. There were a few other things done like rear main seal and clutch - all the things that are cheap enough to do with the car apart.

If you do bigger kays you'll find a very substansial improvement in fuel economy that will start to offset the cost of the conversion. The T5s are not uncommon in the Trading Post but there are a few other bits like pedal box which you'll need to track down. Just try to be sure the box is good (a psychic may be able to help here

), and use good quality fluid such as Castrol Transmax Z.

bindi · 04-08-2005, 07:51 PM

Well the guy that hubby talked to today said the clutch alone was gonna be over $800! WTF was that all about? I think he was trying to convince hubby to go for an auto, make his life easier.

Currently I am waiting for Spider GT (Chris) to get back from his holiday in QLD so we can look at our options... he's offered to put it in for nix, just the pleasure of my company and getting in there and helping out (I like to learn stuff)

:

: oh and probably some booze of course.

As I said before, the car is fine as long as it's warm, so we have a few days to think about what to do before it dies in the ****.

OH!!!!!!!! Also yet another issue that was not picked up by 3 mechanics - the power steering box is leaking fluid like an incontinent old man! Unbe-freaking-lievable...

stockstandard · 04-08-2005, 07:57 PM

haha... $800 clutch.

My xtreme clutch cost $360, and the ceramic version thats good for more than 400rwkw is $550.

The complete conversion for my ef was $1250 and that had everything I needed (inc computer). Was a recon T5 as well.

bindi · 04-08-2005, 08:00 PM

So you're saying $1250 all up including the box and all the bits... you just put it in yourself?

That would be awesome :Reverend:

:

Damo · 04-08-2005, 08:00 PM

lol @ $800 clutch, mine cost $230 including a new thrust bearing and flywheel machining, standard Excedy clutch.

If you're lucky the P/S leak might just be the switch or one of the hoses, pretty easy to check where it's leaking from.

stockstandard · 04-08-2005, 08:07 PM

yeah, the conversion is easy, as long as you can get the car nice and high of the ground

ilsautomotive · 04-08-2005, 08:11 PM

This isn't a plug but a counter-punch to the $800 clutch claim. :P

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-E...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FALCON-HEAVY-...QQcmdZViewItem

Both items around the $135 mark. Heavy duty is good; it makes the already high pedal effort a bit worse but is worth it in terms of longevity.

stockstandard · 04-08-2005, 08:13 PM

not to mention tear a hole in the firewall...

Damo · 04-08-2005, 08:43 PM

Damn that first one is the same as what I got, bloody cheap.

INJECTED_250 · 05-08-2005, 09:27 AM

IM almost 99.9 percent sure that the tail shafts are the same lenghth. EA-EL t5 are all the same length so i dont know where he is getting that from :>

bindi · 05-08-2005, 09:31 AM

OK well then this guy is a dick. NP, thanks for that

EDIT: Is the auto shaft the same length as the manual one though? Just reread your post! lol

DOUBLE EDIT: Also, seals and gaskets etc... is that a genuine Ford thing I have to buy? And what do I need? And the biggie, HOW MUCH? lol

TRIPLE EDIT: Should this be moved across to the transmission forum? :voldar02:

Damo · 05-08-2005, 11:46 AM

yeah tailshafts are all the same.

stockstandard · 05-08-2005, 12:00 PM

3 speed shafts are different length, but any 4 speed or 5 speed (I6 or V8) will work.

Damo · 05-08-2005, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockstandard

3 speed shafts are different length, but any 4 speed or 5 speed (I6 or V8) will work.

No they're NOT! I don't know why everyone says this.

5 speed shafts are apparently a couple of mm shorter, but they all are very much the same and all work except EB2 (?) onwards have a different flange for the diff, I have had 2 different 3 speed tailshafts in my car without any problems.

Your 3 speed tailshaft will be fine Bindi.

Also with the Firewall re-inforcing, I wouldn't bother, the majority of Factory 5 speeds i've seen, have never had it done, and we're talking about 16-17 year old cars here, your car being an auto would never of had any presure on this area, so I would say it would be good for atleast 10 years. That is unless you're going to put a super heavy clutch in it and flog the sh!t out of it.

Just my 55 cents.

bindi · 05-08-2005, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damo

Your 3 speed tailshaft will be fine Bindi.

Also with the Firewall re-inforcing, I wouldn't bother, the majority of Factory 5 speeds i've seen, have never had it done, and we're talking about 16-17 year old cars here, your car being an auto would never of had any presure on this area, so I would say it would be good for atleast 10 years. That is unless you're going to put a super heavy clutch in it and flog the sh!t out of it.

Well ok then, I can't wait to get under there and see the tailshaft for myself

And then I will be able to comment on it once and for all lol.

As for flogging... well, maybe I SHOULD go the reinforcement. I drive a manual like it begs to be driven

:

bindi · 19-08-2005, 06:49 AM

Just to bring you up to date and let those interested know some stuff.

Ok we ended up deciding to get another 3spd auto, basically because of money and time constraints (had to be done in a day, couldn't afford it being off the road any longer than that - and with the Sydney cruise coming up, she has to be ready!)... oh well, maybe next time? lol

Got a reco 3spd put in yesterday by a pretty decent bloke. The box that came out of the EA ended up being an XF trans... which, the guy was saying, had been causing issues not only cos it was dead, but something about revving etc? Hubby was talking at me about it but I was too tired to listen lol.

I tell you, driving her last night was a BIG difference. It's like the engine was saying "Thank you thank you thank you, now I can be free to rev a bit more". Not sure if that is possible (don't know the difference btwn an XF and EA trans, if any?! Enlighten me!).

Other things keep being pointed out. Ok so we know about the slight head gasket issue (will be replaced with an AU one soon, plus getting some head work done on it), and the power steering is on it's way out (will be getting that fixed soon too). Now it has been pointed out that our catalytic convertor is dead. How can the guy who did the rear muffler not have noticed, checked or cared? Are there nothing but dodgy mechanics in Western Sydney? Is there nobody trustworthy?

So there you go. Think Pauline Hanson when I ask Please Explain about the difference (if any?) btwn an xf and ea trans and what effect (if any?) it would have on the car?

Ta guys 'n' girls!

ilsautomotive · 05-08-2005, 12:33 PM

I think the rear main seal costs $15 or something from Ford. Basically all those parts cost bugger all but the labour side of things can easily cost hundreds. Thus the recommendation of doing it at once.

And the installer will need to reinforce the firewall as it's a known weak point in manuals. Should not cost anything substantial.