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16-01-2007, 09:25 PM | #1 | ||
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Got a tyre with a nail in it on my ute. I carry heavy loads every day and got to get it replaced as quick as possibly, no hanging round for a hour waiting...so im at the mercy of a tyre place in respect to $$, no time to shop round etc...
Anyway, can I get away with just replacing the tyre with the nail and have different treads, or should I do both? What are the pros and cons? And lastly, approximately what would I be looking at for a 17 inch tyre of middle of the road quality? thanks :0) |
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16-01-2007, 09:29 PM | #2 | ||
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Ideally you would have the same tread on either side - mixing front to rear is not an issue. You should be able to buy a tyre to match the other side - just ask your tyre shop to see what they have. It is not a drama to have slightly different tread depths on either side as your tyres are always spinning at different speeds anyway. A mid range 17" tyre will cost about $200-$250.
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16-01-2007, 09:30 PM | #3 | |||
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If you have 2 different tyres on the same axle, you may get different grip and handling response which could be dangerous in the wet.
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16-01-2007, 09:30 PM | #4 | ||
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****! that much hey? Well, I guess my estimates were a bit off! "0)
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16-01-2007, 09:33 PM | #5 | ||
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^^lol, When Conti's cost $700 a corner I thought I was being generous! Cheapies are well under $200, top end are $700 and beyond. You should get a good tyre for $200-$250 easily.
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16-01-2007, 09:35 PM | #6 | ||
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Keep the same tread on both sides mate. Different tread makes for...well, 'interesting' driving in the wet. Its also illegal in New South Wales. Not sure about other states though.
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16-01-2007, 09:55 PM | #7 | |||
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the next day it was ****ing rain. now not only were the tyres different tread, they were different profile, and one was brand new, the other had about 70-80% wear. INTERESTING- is an understatment LOL!!
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16-01-2007, 09:58 PM | #8 | ||
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Why don't you just patch the tyre? Any good tyre shop will do it for you.
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16-01-2007, 10:02 PM | #9 | ||||
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16-01-2007, 10:04 PM | #10 | |||
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Is it possible to patch a tyre with a nail in it though? I would have thought that would have been fatal... |
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16-01-2007, 10:07 PM | #11 | ||
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Nowadays they use a rubber plug, only if the hole is not too big.
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16-01-2007, 10:38 PM | #12 | ||
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I just got a plug done on my 18" tyre yesterday. The tyre shop reckons it's fine at all speeds etc. I would do that rather than get a new tyre.
As for hot_xr6s claim that different treads on the same axle are illegal - what a load of BS. Different tyre construction (cross ply & radial) on the same axle is illegal (and unsafe), but you can have whatever tread pattern you like, and as much or as little tread on each side as you wish, so long as the lowest tread depth is still at or above minimum (approx 3mm).
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16-01-2007, 10:47 PM | #13 | |||
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how long did it take? Thats the big thing for my situation...ta |
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16-01-2007, 10:54 PM | #14 | |||
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16-01-2007, 11:00 PM | #15 | ||
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JC is right, plug patches are no worries at all.
I've had plug patches installed in my VFR800 before and that machine travels much faster than my AU's ever will LOL! I think I've had them in my previous cars too, yes I recall both my lasers. No probs there either. Go the plug patch, $20-30 and you know the tread will be the same both sides. LOL! GK
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16-01-2007, 11:12 PM | #16 | ||
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I can speak from experince on this on I've literally done thousands of plugs
so long is it not on the shoulder of the tyre, no probs. The inside of the tyre is buffed up rough and glue applied, the stem of the plug helps seal the steel belts of the casing from the weather, the patch on the end of the stem seals the inside of the tyre, the plug wears down with your existing tread and the inside of the tyre where the patch is, is sealed over with a thick black sealant too. Also on the price side of things, you should be able to get decent enough tyres in the 235/45r17 size for around the 160 mark as the cheapies start off at 120 is now days. and so long as the profie (size) of the tyre is the same on both sides (front or rear) and not outside the guard of the wheel arch and within the load and speed rating of the tyre placard of the vehicle, then the tread patterns can be different front to back and side to side. But most tyre shops would reccommend front matching treads. Cheers.
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16-01-2007, 11:13 PM | #17 | |||
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16-01-2007, 11:13 PM | #18 | |||
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16-01-2007, 11:16 PM | #19 | |||
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having done that many, how long does it take, generally? The nail is right in the middle, so it sounds like im in luck :0) |
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16-01-2007, 11:17 PM | #20 | |||
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And of course, I am talking same size, ratio etc (ie 235/45/17) - but even cops will let you get away with having one different tyre if it's obvious that it's the spare, and the normal tyre is in the boot punctured, or not in the car as it is being fixed.
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16-01-2007, 11:18 PM | #21 | |||
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Ok, here's an excerpt from the NSW RTA site: Additional requirements for replacement wheels When wheels and tyres outside the manufacturers recommended range are fitted to a vehicle the following requirements must be met: The wheel rim width must not be less than the minimum width fitted by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model. The wheel and tyre must be contained within the body work or mudguards (including any flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. The wheel and tyre must not foul any part of the body or suspension under all operating conditions. All wheels and tyres fitted to an axle must be of the same carcass construction, diameter, offset, width and mounting configuration (except for spare wheels used in an emergency situation). The wheel must not prevent the wheel nuts from fully engaging their studs. The wheel rim must not have a circumferential weld other than that which attaches the rim to the wheel centre. The wheel must be one designed for the particular hub/axle in respect to bolt pitch circle diameter and wheel nut tapers. Wheels with slotted stud holes are not permitted. Speedometer accuracy must be maintained for the selected tyre and rim combination. The fitment of wheel spacers (or adaptors for dual wheel conversions) between the wheel mounting face and the road wheel is not permitted unless fitted as original equipment by the vehicle manufacturer. Tyres The tyre and rim industry sets standards for the correct combinations of wheels and tyres. If you are in doubt as to which tyres are acceptable alternatives for your car, ask your tyre dealer to check for you. The tyres you fit must correctly match your cars wheels. If the wheels are listed on your cars tyre placard or in the owners handbook then the tyres you fit must be those listed on the placard or in the handbook for these wheels. Dont mix tyre types or sizes if you can possibly avoid this. Never mix radials with cross-ply tyres on one axle. If you have only two radials, they must be on the rear wheels. Always make sure that both front tyres and both back tyres are the same. Tyre load rating Any replacement tyre must have a load rating equal to or better than the rating of the original tyres fitted by the vehicle manufacturer. This information is available from the tyre placard or the vehicle manufacturer.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19 staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19 staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT Last edited by JC; 16-01-2007 at 11:38 PM. |
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16-01-2007, 11:25 PM | #22 | |||
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yes still (as money n time permit) doing the rebuilding the zh fairlane with a clevo 400m 4v heads injected whipple blown with aode 4 speed trans to a 9" ....... we'll get there eventually just remember don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! I have taken up meditation... at least it's better than sitting around doing nothing !! |
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16-01-2007, 11:26 PM | #23 | |||
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16-01-2007, 11:28 PM | #24 | |||
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Are you saying "keep the same tread on both sides" meaning that all four tyres have to be the same tread pattern? Or were you saying that if you are mixing patterns that you should keep the RHS F&R as one pattern and the LHS F&R the other pattern? |
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16-01-2007, 11:40 PM | #25 | ||
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sorry guys.. but yep, id just plug it. Last edited by 1600GT; 16-01-2007 at 11:45 PM. Reason: already covered by others. |
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16-01-2007, 11:46 PM | #26 | |||
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16-01-2007, 11:52 PM | #27 | |||
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19 staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19 staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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17-01-2007, 12:13 AM | #28 | |||
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17-01-2007, 09:34 AM | #29 | |||
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GK
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17-01-2007, 12:43 PM | #30 | ||
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Either replace both or stick to finding same tyre.
IT will be ok with two different tyres on rear but just to give you an example it will be like having two different shoes on your feet just not right and it wont feel right.
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