Questions regarding engine rebuilds.

[The MaDDeSTMaN]

Ok, now that it seems like my 2L Escort engine is in major trouble :( I've been thinking about the other two Escorts we have. They both have Kent engines, a High Compression 1300 in the Mk I and a Low Compression 1600 in the Mk II.

The 1600 needs a rebuild anyway, due to it fouling the spark plugs, blowing smoke, etc...

The 1300 we're still having problems with, but it's definately in better condition then the 1600.

So, what I've been thinking is that once the Falcon is back on the road, we might pull both Kent engines out, and stip them down. Then use the crankshaft from the 1600 in the 1300, therefore changing the 1300HC to a 1600 High compression engine, also adding a weber 32/36 carby so it can breath a bit better, and most likely bolting on a decent set of extractors.

Now, my questions are, seeing as the engine inside the Mk I Escort (and the car itself) pre-dates ADR 27A, does that mean we wouldn't have to ensure it has all the later model ADR 27A equipment that is on the Mk IIs 1600? Has anybody else done anything else like this before? Seeing as the block itself won't be changed, do we have to notify VicRoads of these modifications - the carby and extractors will be obvious, but the extra capacity will not, and the block will still be the one that goes with the car. The other issue I can think of, will I need an engineers certificate or anything like that, because it will be making a bit more power then the 1300HC did from the factory, however it will be close to the spec of some of the sportier Mk I Escort models, such as the Mk I Mexico.

And before anyone says "forget the kent engines, drop a 2L in" - I've got a 2L here already, and it too needs some major attention. :(

[Perana]

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

Then use the crankshaft from the 1600 in the 1300, therefore changing the 1300HC to a 1600 High compression engine

Unfortunatly can't be done because the blocks are different height.

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

also adding a weber 32/36 carby so it can breath a bit better, and most likely bolting on a decent set of extractors

That would get it performing quite nicely... Thats what they did on the MkI Mexico's as well as early MkII Ghia's (both had a hotter cam as well though) and they really perfromed quite well for a 1600 as well as having decent economy still.

You could use a rejetted 32/36DGAV carby fine as the 1600GT carby was a 32DCD which was identical except for smaller secondary. the main problem you will have is getting a manifold.

Im not sure on regs as far as VicRoads since I live in SA...

[The MaDDeSTMaN]

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

Unfortunatly can't be done because the blocks are different height.



That would get it performing quite nicely... Thats what they did on the MkI Mexico's as well as early MkII Ghia's (both had a hotter cam as well though) and they really perfromed quite well for a 1600 as well as having decent economy still.

You could use a rejetted 32/36DGAV carby fine as the 1600GT carby was a 32DCD which was identical except for smaller secondary. the main problem you will have is getting a manifold.

Im not sure on regs as far as VicRoads since I live in SA...

Ahh, damn, this is the sort of information I'm having trouble finding to add to my website, thanks for that, now I know and can add it to the site.

So what about converting the 1600 to a high compression then? And I'm guessing that since the 1600 block is post ADR 27A (it's a 1980 model), it would need all the stuff it's got now? Although being a newer block, it could very well be stronger, and could be bored out to become a 1700, right?

Yeah, the early Mk II 1600 Ghias were quite an interesting little car when the Mk II first came out - I was suprised how much power they made out of the 1600 OHV Kent.

I remember reading somewhere that the 1300HC has a slightly wilder cam then the stock 1300, is that right and if so, would it be suitable for use in a 1600, or would we be better off going for an aftermarket cam to suit the desired application?

Also would there be any difference between the 1300HC head and the 1600 unit?

Basically, I want to use the best bits out of each engine, and build a nice streetable little engine that performs much better then the 1300HC that's in there now, which is one of the main reasons I'm considering upping the capacity to 1600 or even 1700cc.

Or would I be better off just rebuilding the 1600, adding a rejetted 32/36DGAV carby or a 32DCD, and extractors?

[The MaDDeSTMaN]

BTW, has anybody had a look at my website I've been working on, I'm still after more information to add to it, and if anybody could correct any mistakes I've made so far, I would appreciate it, thanks!

[GreenMachine]

Have very little Escort-specific knowledge, but my advice would be to rebuild the 1600, and whilst the head is off get a coupla thou shaved off it to bring the compression up (an Escort-person would know how much to skim).

If you're able to do the work yourself (tools, space, patience), do so. I know that you can build a very good warm 351 Cleveland for about $1300, I'd estimate you could do it for a little over half that for a 4cyl Escort. Basically it's a bit of machine work (acid dipping, honing the bores, perhaps a slight overbore), a set of bearings, rings and gaskets, a cam, maybe 4 new pistons and a bit of your time bolting it all together. You could convert it to unleaded whilst you're at it.

I understand there are excellent rebuild manuals for older Ford 4's.

I cannot speak highly enough of Weber carbs for everything from 1300 4 bangers to thumping V8's. They are such a popular conversion for just about everything (particularly older Toyota 4's etc) for a reason.

[The MaDDeSTMaN]

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

You could convert it to unleaded whilst you're at it.

Yeah, that's something else I'd been thinking about, although forgot to add it to my posts. It would be great to be able to just add some premium fuel in the tank and go, rather then having to muck around with those additives.

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

Have very little Escort-specific knowledge, but my advice would be to rebuild the 1600, and whilst the head is off get a coupla thou shaved off it to bring the compression up (an Escort-person would know how much to skim).

If you're able to do the work yourself (tools, space, patience), do so. I know that you can build a very good warm 351 Cleveland for about $1300, I'd estimate you could do it for a little over half that for a 4cyl Escort. Basically it's a bit of machine work (acid dipping, honing the bores, perhaps a slight overbore), a set of bearings, rings and gaskets, a cam, maybe 4 new pistons and a bit of your time bolting it all together.

I'm not sure if I could do the work myself, but I'm willing to have a go if I can arrange somewhere to do it (got a few people I could ask) as well as arranging the tools needed.

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

I understand there are excellent rebuild manuals for older Ford 4's.

I wouldn't doubt it, and once I know what course of action I'm going to take, I'll see what information I can find. Of course, everything that I learn will find it's way onto the web site, including pictures.

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

I cannot speak highly enough of Weber carbs for everything from 1300 4 bangers to thumping V8's. They are such a popular conversion for just about everything (particularly older Toyota 4's etc) for a reason.

I agree, I've got a Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 2L Pinto and I'm happy with it (pity the engine isn't exactly happy anymore :(), I don't really want to keep the stock motorcraft single barrel rubbish that is stock on both the kent engines we have.

[Perana]

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

So what about converting the 1600 to a high compression then? And I'm guessing that since the 1600 block is post ADR 27A (it's a 1980 model), it would need all the stuff it's got now? Although being a newer block, it could very well be stronger, and could be bored out to become a 1700, right?

Im not sure about what emissions gear would be required over there but over here it isnt needed.. All 711M (1970 >) 1600 Blocks are the same but some are stronger than others depending on how well it was cast.. the best way to tell how far you can go is to get it checked out.. Very few blocks can go 1760cc but as far as i know most but not all can go 1700cc

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

Yeah, the early Mk II 1600 Ghias were quite an interesting little car when the Mk II first came out - I was suprised how much power they made out of the 1600 OHV Kent.

Yeah according to my workshop manual they were rated at 62kw which is pretty good seeing a 2.0L was rated at 70.... My grandfather bought one new in '76 was just early enough to get the GT motor and luckely bought a manual as well... Its sitting in our backyard at the moment after having done well over 470,000km. Had a set of rings through it in the early 80's and a full rebuild (including forged pistons) since then at some stage.. Still goes strong too as good as a stock 2.0L IMO

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

I remember reading somewhere that the 1300HC has a slightly wilder cam then the stock 1300, is that right and if so, would it be suitable for use in a 1600, or would we be better off going for an aftermarket cam to suit the desired application?

MkI 1100 and 1300 cams are identical except for 1300GT's which had the same cam as the 1600GT engine. MkII 1300 cams were the same as the post ADR27A 1600 cams with slightly more duration than the MkI 1100/1300 cams but there isnt enough difference to worry about.. If you can get hold of a GT cam go with that otherwise go for aftermarket.. all depending how big you want to go.

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

Also would there be any difference between the 1300HC head and the 1600 unit?

1300 heads had smaller valves than 1600's and since the head surface is flat and the combustion chamber is cast into the piston the only way for increasing compression is different pistons (unless you got one of the rare combustion chamber in head head's which is very unlikely) the only other thing i have heard is using 1300 pistons in a 1600 raises the compression... im not 100% sure if that can be done or how high it would take the compression though but might be worth checking out

Originally Posted by The MaDDeSTMaN

Basically, I want to use the best bits out of each engine, and build a nice streetable little engine that performs much better then the 1300HC that's in there now, which is one of the main reasons I'm considering upping the capacity to 1600 or even 1700cc.

Or would I be better off just rebuilding the 1600, adding a rejetted 32/36DGAV carby or a 32DCD, and extractors?

Probably better off doing that not many parts in the 1300 are better than what is in the 1600 except possibly the pistons... add an aftermarket cam or GT cam if you can afford too as well would make it go very well.. especially if your putting it in the MkI which is much lighter than a MKII ;)

[Perana]

Heads cant be shaved because of them being completely flat already.. To run unleaded you really need to get the valve seats done as well...

Add me to your msn if you want Troy ;) assuming you use it lol

[buickman]

Why don't you look around at pick a part when they have the sales on the bare mtrs and try and find a good 2 ltr out of a cortina or Escort The trading post has their weekly sales advertised.I purchased a good Mazda long mtr for $90 for a family member. Only prob you need to check if any are OK then bring tools & trailer and build huge legs trying to push those ugly engine cranes around.

Having owned a 2ltr P/Van and my son owning a 2 ltr 1980 Ghia the kent mtrs are way behind in power output in stock condition.

I would be looking up wreckers and seeing if there is a good 2ltr mtr at a reasonable price if pulling out the mtr sounds to hard at the self serve wreckers.
You only need the sump changed to fit the cortina 2ltr mtr in the Escorts

buickman

if you want high compression on a 1600 kent engine with out buying trick pistons get some HC 1100 cc escort pistons ,the only thing youll have to do is modify ( file ) the valve cut outs if your running large valves .being the herron style piston it is very easy to modify them and generally as long as your rings are not worn or broken the pistons will never melt.if you run the motor too lean or have severe detonation yes you will melt pistons .buy a oxy sensor for your exhaust.a cheap kit from dick smiths or jacar might save $100s in engine repaires .also you can fit a knock sensor to acttivatte water injecttion ,this is a cheap fix but it realy works .they are a realy tough little engine if you know what your doing with them.the best part i liked about them was the look on peoples face when you beat them and open the bonnet to show a rusty push rod lump sitting there haha

[Falcon Coupe]

First post: 17-06-05, 01:52 PM

I'd say it's sorted by now.