power steering rack

[old fordnut]

Is the xr8 rack speed sensitive?

[Crazy Dazz]

Originally Posted by urbancowboy

RE: steering racks,

Replace it! as has been previously stated it is cheap insurance! They are a exchange item, no matter where you get it from! they don't make NEW ones anymore, Go to repco they are your cheapest option. I recently replaced mine, i work for Ford spare parts and the Repco one was cheaper than getting the Ford one even at staff price!

Ok, is this an easy DIY job, if I get an exchange rack from Repco?

[urbancowboy]

I wouldn't say easy, but i didn't do mine myself, i got my work to do it for me. If you do it yourself be prepared for the time the job takes to blow out! You will probably have to pay a deposit on the rack because they're exchange, they want a deposit till you give them your old rack i think its about 300 (which they then re-co for the next person), Also the car will need a wheel alignment.
Be smart and replace as much as you can afford while your at it, it will save you needing to change a tie rod end anytime soon! My moto is fix something once properly, save yourself a headache later.

[svo supporter]

2 nuts for the tierod ends, 2 nuts that hold the rack to the cross member, 1 bolt that holds the rack to the intermediate shaft, 2 power steering lines and maybe a clip for a wiring loom if there is a speed sensor.

Don't think that'd take to long.

As for replacing tierods. My motto does differ, in that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[boinker43]

Rack ends with seals AU I II III, $20 a pair.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...item414b7e6f95
Rack boots with ties, $10 a pair.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-P...item3358b5234f
Stop giving your perfectly good rack to the place, and buying someone elses for $300, of which they only replaced these parts.
So they can sell yours to someone else after only replacing these parts.

[peterban]

Has anyone done this by just replacing the parts boinker43 suggests.
How hard is it to replace the rack ends?

[White_sr_taxi]

i have seen on thy forums, do a serch and you'll find it its a "how to" i think... but by reading the closing comments i would't give it a go, get someone who can give you a warranty on the work done and whos done them thousands of times. unless you do it for a living. Edit: thats for full reco rack and ends.

[svo supporter]

As white SR taxi has suggested, it might be best if you allow someone else to replace the rackends, rather than do it yourself, as it might end up disasterous. I could describe the procedure for replacement, however I would prefer not to.

I have seen the end result of inexperienced people (No offense to your abilities) replacing these and the result hasn't been pretty for the owner, or the other innocient driver.

Sorry BOINKER43. They do more than replace those bits you have said. They replace all the seals inside the rack and check all the "gears or cogs" inside the rack for any signs of wear. A little more complex than you're suggesting. If there is signs of wear on these gears/cogs, they are replaced. If they aren't, the result is they jump, which can cause loss of direct steering input. Yes there are more factors with it all, but I'd prefer to keep it rather brief and simple, to save issues down the track.

For memory, MONTYV8 posted an exploded view of a rack on the forum once before. (A rack that was wrecked). If that picture could be found, that'd be perfect to show what I'm describing with these gears/cogs.

So for piece of mind, buying an exchange unit is the best option. Steering racks is your main control of the car.

[boinker43]

I suggest one of you, or all of you, go and message the CV place on EBay, and ask them how easy it is.
I believe they are qualified to tell you what is involved.
I am not, but mine works fine anyway.

[mik]

i`m not qaulified but i did my own rack from top to bottom, if someone did only those parts you have mentioned Boinker43, i would`nt be very happy mate, i found a fair bit of grit in my rack even though i just originally pulled it apart because the left side had seeped oil into the dust boot, once pulled completly to bits to clean and check would you not replace all seals?, i did and the job was a pain in the --- and i would`nt do it again, any one buying a reco rack should also ask about warranty included, would you buy one with 3 months warranty? i also flushed the lines and pump on mine before reasembly, and a front end alignment is also required .

[svo supporter]

Originally Posted by boinker43

I suggest one of you, or all of you, go and message the CV place on EBay, and ask them how easy it is.
I believe they are qualified to tell you what is involved.
I am not, but mine works fine anyway.

No need to when I see them constantly.

Another problem buying from ebay is, warranty. Generally for a rack to be covered by warranty, they've got to be fitted by a qualified mechanic. If you have problems with one of these ebay racks, and you end up with problems, what headaches are you going to encounter? Plenty I'd suspect.

[ronwest]

Originally Posted by mik

i`m not qaulified but i did my own rack from top to bottom,

Yeah I did one in a Commodore some years ago. It wasn't a huge production.
I don't know about Ford's (actually I don't know about any other than the one I did) but I wouldn't be concerned about doing another.

[boinker43]

Originally Posted by svo supporter

No need to when I see them constantly.

Another problem buying from ebay is, warranty. Generally for a rack to be covered by warranty, they've got to be fitted by a qualified mechanic. If you have problems with one of these ebay racks, and you end up with problems, what headaches are you going to encounter? Plenty I'd suspect.

Edited:

Please adhere to the Forum Rules and Regulations please ... there is no need for this.

[frd906]

Would be a big problem if you did it your self and it fails at 100kms an hour, most guys on here rather pay the extra money and no its done right,

[frd906]

what are you talking about. i picked up a 2 hand rack for 50 bucks, no leaks or anythingm you have to no the right people

[peterban]

I have had a look at the exploded view of the steering rack and it looks as if the seals are not that easy to replace.
From what you say Boinker43 the ends just screw in. Can you do this with the rack in place and is the seal easy to replace?

[mik]

Originally Posted by boinker43

Edited:

Please adhere to the Forum Rules and Regulations please ... there is no need for this.

mate you need to calm down, he`s entitled to his opinion as much as you. but no need for hostility..

[svo supporter]

Originally Posted by boinker43

Edited:

Please adhere to the Forum Rules and Regulations please ... there is no need for this.

I'll say one thing about your reply. Replacing a rackend doesn't entail replacing a seal. If all that is stuffed is a rackend or tierod, that's what I'll replace. However if it is leaking internally, yes replace the whole thing.

As for the ebay racks. I'm not saying not to get them. All I'm saying is be careful warranty wise. Nothing worse than being dooped, unless you don't mind of course.

$20 rackend. Uh ha. We'll leave the rest alone now.

[Mechan1k]

Afterr a little clean-up ... let me please remind you all of the Forum Rules and Regulations ... they can be found here:

http://www.fordforums.com.au/announc...nouncementid=2

Please familiarise yourselves with them.

Now the AU section has been pretty good for quite a while ... and the group of us really don't have to pull anyone into line ... but on the rare occasion we do.

Please play nice ... the forum is here to help everyone with technical expertise from members who give their valuable time and knowledge.

[svo supporter]

I'll attempt to explain how to replace a rackend.

Once you have the wheel removed from the vehicle, undo the tierod locking nut. You only need to break the seal between the nut and the tierod.

Then undo the nut holding the tierod end into the stub axle. Some of these nuts are castled (which would mean removing the splitpin) or they might just be a nylocnut. Once that has been achieved, hit the stub axle right near the tierod end with a hammer with a couple of short sharp blows, until the tierod end drops free.

Then at the rack boot, undo the zip tie at the rack itself and peel back the boot, so it exposes the rackend. You should then see a flat washer than has been folded in 2 spots over the flat of the rackend. These 2 folds need to be straightened which ever way you so desire.

Once this has been successfully achieved, you can then undo the rackend, either with a pair of mulitgrips, a pipe wrench, shifter or correct sized open ended spanner.

Replacement is reversal of removing. I do prefer to place a line of loctite on the rackend thread, prior to installing it into the rack itself. This ensures that the end won't work loose.

You do have to be careful re-threading the rackend into the rack, as it can be stripped quite easily. It is also imperative that the washer at the end of the rack end is also folded back over the flats of the rackend, as this also holds it in place.

Obviously you'll have to place the tierod and tierod nut back on the new rackend. When this is all back together, with the rim back on the car, and prior to lowering it off the stands, just turn the tierod end until the wheels are pointing straight ahead, as best as the eye can see. The obviously head off for the alignment.

Hopefully this helps with the replacement. I'll also add in, I have never ever had to replace a seal when I've replaced a rackend. The rackends I've replaced is because the balljoint is worn, not because a seal is leaking. Once the replacement has been done, the rack has been fine and leak free as well.

Generally when the seals start leaking, this is a sign things are worn internally within the rack. This is the time I generally suggest to replace them. Of course I do recommend exchange units, however it's upto the individual whether they get a recoed one, newie or 2nd hand.

Good luck with it all now

[old fordnut]

This thread certainly opened up a can of worms. Its alright ppl no need to take any of it to heart. I only asked a simple question and now all this has started.

[ronwest]

Hey SVO,

do you mind continuing on with your "how to" and include seal replacement (inc any differences with speed sensitive).

Cheers...

[peterban]

So is it useless replacing the rack ends if their is fluid leaking from the boots??

[svo supporter]

Yes it would be useless replacing the rackends if it's leaking fluid out of the rack itself. (It pools up in the rack boots) This is when I suggest replacing the entire rack. However people have differing opinions, which has ben shown in this thread.


As I've already mentioned, if the seals are leaking at the end of the rack, where the,I recommend rack replacements, hence me never replacing just one or 2 seals. (There are a few within the rack tiself). Again, others have their opinions with that, so I'll leave it upto the individual what they want to do

[bubbadamaged]

ive just figured another use for the "Fan Clutch Wrench" from me xf
perfect fit for taking the rack ends off than using a normal adjustable wrench.

After i took a rackend off i figured that those bent washers can give trouble if they aint bent back because afterwards i saw the little pins in the washer to keep it in place.

after that experiance i saw that "svo supporter"
already had the details explained in taking the rackend out it could have saved me self trouble if i could have read it in time.

but aleast i did it now
and i got a new property for the fan clutch tool. now

[Bolly]

i bought my AU2 XR8 at 30,000 kilo`s and the the rack had a seepage leak ..or a very slight leak..nothing leaked on the ground..cars done 47,000 ks and still the same..
As a mechanic for a Holden,Volvo,and Jaguar dealerships from years ago, every rack had some seepage ..never saw a DRY rack..most of the cars had less than 20,000 kilo`s.

[svo supporter]

Originally Posted by Bolly

i bought my AU2 XR8 at 30,000 kilo`s and the the rack had a seepage leak ..or a very slight leak..nothing leaked on the ground..cars done 47,000 ks and still the same..
As a mechanic for a Holden,Volvo,and Jaguar dealerships from years ago, every rack had some seepage ..never saw a DRY rack..most of the cars had less than 20,000 kilo`s.

I spend most of my days underneath the front of cars, aligning them. So from what you're saying, I should come home smelling like an auto tranmission.

Well, I can tell you, I don't. I come home smelling like an old motor, with all the engine oil leaks I see. I see the occasional leaking rack and that's it.

BTW. Volvos and Jags had leaks from the factory everywhere, so it's pointless using them as an example.