Paint job only, body work done. Price? - Page 2

24-01-2006, 11:40 PM

:gren: SOME PETROL AN A MATCH ? :gren:

chief · 25-01-2006, 12:51 AM

If you take it to a spray painter they may paint it and give no warrenty because they can not guareentee the prep work. Otherwise they could painti it and take off all your prep work and they will stat again and charge you for it. I reckon you have come this far, go all the way.

Good luck

Van D · 25-01-2006, 01:56 PM

Not to hijack.. But my van has straight panels and has fading/scratched/chipped etc white paint.

If I want to just get a touch up sort of coat of white to have it looking new again.. how much would I be looking at? I don't want a full on detailed job, as i'll be giving it a proper paint job/mural in the future when I get more money.

Cheers.

brenx · 25-01-2006, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by popinfresh

Not to hijack.. But my van has straight panels and has fading/scratched/chipped etc white paint.

If I want to just get a touch up sort of coat of white to have it looking new again.. how much would I be looking at? I don't want a full on detailed job, as i'll be giving it a proper paint job/mural in the future when I get more money.

Cheers.

If your doing it? Anywhere from $500-$1500.

If someone else is doing it? $1500 and upwards.

foxtrot · 25-01-2006, 05:02 PM

woops! when you open a thread it goes to the last page generally.. but when you own the thread it goes to page one.. I just realised then after being on the forums alll day that there is 2 pages of this thread

all that extra help I didn't see till now lol

thanks heaps brenx (Its you that painted your car yourself right) knowing that yours is a home job makes me feel better (because yours looks good)

foxtrot · 25-01-2006, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brenx

I would do it on a weekday. As most work during the day. So it's a perfect time not to annoy the neighbours. Although I was out painting the XB @ 2-3am when I was doing the XB not so long ago.

Oh

and "most" is including me .. 8.39 - 4.30 everyday except monday till 5
I might make final preperation on the car tomorrow and get it ready for the weekend

the jerk across the road has now said the putty spray paint/ primer I used over the bogged bits is not waterproof and its been raining and he says rust will come through or something?!

ahhh!!! it doesnt look like the water has done ИИИИ all.. what do you think

brenx · 25-01-2006, 05:08 PM

Yes, I painted mine myself. It's one of the car's I've painted. I've painted around about 10 different cars. Black was the worst color to paint. It shows everything. It did look good though. That was on a 2dr Escort Rally pack. I also painted from the rear doors back and the bonnet on the beige XB I used to own. Did that one on a gravel driveway. :hihi: I was suprised, I didn't get contamination.

brenx · 25-01-2006, 05:14 PM

yup bog and undercoat etc are all pourus. It can induce rusting from underneath the paint. Sometimes you can be lucky other times you may not be.

TURBOTAXI · 25-01-2006, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrot

Would you still tell me to do it if you knew I had to hang tarps around and turn my yard into a mini spray booth because theres no shed lol

I still want to do it though..

Dont bother with this, just look for a still, sunny day.

foxtrot · 25-01-2006, 07:07 PM

yea i just know that crap will fall from trees on my yard and land on my new paint job!!

Armageddon Designs · 25-01-2006, 09:03 PM

Lets see If I can be any help to you. As some of you might know I have just finished doing the AU, for those that don't, full respray and airbrush work. I used acrylics to do the whole job, they are easy to use, once you get the hang of them, but you can't get an off the gun finish. You have to do a lot of cutting and polishing to get it like glass. When you spray acrylic, due to there composition, they don't go on flat, they produce an orange peel type surface, this is what needs to be cut back to dead flat for the shine. As I said earlier they are easy to use once you have gotten used to them, the main thing is the mixing. Up here, Townsville, I use a mix of 100ml paint to 500ml thinners, have to do that so the paint will atomize properly (the key to good coverage) in winter I change it to a 200/400 ratio. I have found these usually give me the consictancy needed for a good spray. What I advise is you talk to someone in the know in your area and get them to tell you there ratios or show you the consictancy they mix to, It's not just a matter of shoving it in the gun and going for it. When I spray I use the same motion, all horizontal, this gives me a good coverage and makes it easy to see where I'm going. You should start your runs off the car and finish off the car, if you don't you will start to build up paint where you start and finish. Keep a good speed and distance from the panel, again get someone to show you. If you are painting the car fully apart then make sure your mixes are exactly the same and you do the same amount of coats on each panel, if you don't your panels might not match, especially true when using metallics. If you are using metallics do not sand between coats, the metallic sits off the base colour, if you sand it you take the metallic off and it leaves tiny bubbles in the base coat which can be seen when cleared. As for clear coat, same process as colour.

Now the prepwork you have already done. Personally, I would take it but I would still re-prep it myself. That way I know the quality of the work, it's at a standard I'm happy with and I can therefore gaurantee it. It doesn't mater how flat it feels there will still be scratches and imperfections, the best way to find out is to through on some colour and see for your self, the darker the colour the more you see! Hence black paint jobs cost more, more prep time to get it right. You should finish the whole process with about an 800-1000 wet sand before paint, always wet sand, your paper won't clog and gouge your work. Also rub the entire thing back with a good wax and grease remover before you paint.

Popinfresh - when I redid the AU I redid the base colour, the original work had burn marks and scratches through it. All I did was sand back the whole thing with 800 wet and dry, took about three days by hand. You need to make sure there is no shine left what so ever or your paint will not stick to it. I then sprayed the original colour straight over the top, did the airbrush work and then cleard the lot. Spent another day hand sanding the clear with 1500 wet and dry, then a day cutting and polishing the whole lot.

Some prices, for a full respray in 2pac (based on an AU in Silohette) you'd be looking around the $4000-$5000 depending on where you go and the condition of the body.

Materials, most large cars, ie Falcon/Commodore, need about 4Ltrs of colour, the same in under coat and clear coat, 20Ltrs of Thinners and about a Ltr of Wax and Grease remover. For the AU these where the costs I incured.
4Ltrs of Base coat (Monsoon Blue) $149.26
4Ltrs of Under coat $65.80
4Ltrs of Clear coat $71.60
20Ltrs of Thinners $69.90.
The rest of the gear I had here.

I also painted the car at my home in my garage, the main thing you need to watch out for when spraying out side is the wind, try to keep it off your work area as it will blow the paint around as it comes off the gun and will play havoc with your finish, lots of dry spray.

Hope some of this helps you some how.

kaytonk · 25-01-2006, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrot

...call ANYONE can you's tell me what im probably...

I normally cant stand people correcting spelling etc, especially since most of us just dont care on here, but please dont use that 'word'

Also, pm bigwaity, he know's a guy that may be able to help you out cheap

kaytonk · 25-01-2006, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armageddon

.....

I think you covered everything quite well there, but since im too lazy to read the whole post, just in case no-one else mentioned it, do a quick spray around the edge of your doors before doing the whole car, its the first place to get chipped, so may aswell make it slightly stronger/thicker

foxtrot · 26-01-2006, 02:19 AM

who is bitwaity .. can you give me a link to his forum thingo!!!?? is he located on the sunny coast??

Armageddon Designs · 26-01-2006, 08:19 AM

Go to the member list and search for bigwaity, you will get his details from there.

1971 · 26-01-2006, 11:17 AM

hi,my wife had her car painted at a shop for $700 phantom perpule,i did the other one myself and F IT UP.I i can give you his phone number if you like,im in brisbane.the cars were primerd ready for painting when we took them to him.if thats any help.

1971 · 26-01-2006, 11:25 AM

heres mine, not to bad will have to paint again.

buickman · 26-01-2006, 11:48 AM

Do a panel like a door or boot 1st to see how you go.2pac's the way to go but you canstill get a good finish with acrylic. 6 litres of spice hecker straight tinter 2 pac was used on my Buick in the garage. It came out OK not show quality but as good as any paint job.

foxtrot · 26-01-2006, 02:45 PM

Whoa not bad the purple looks awesome

How did you F up the black AU though? Was it cheap paint or something you did wrong
The Buick looks friggin sweet as

My cars outside now i'll pop back out soon and get some more done.. just prepping it.. i really want to at least get undercoat done this weekend

brenx · 26-01-2006, 02:50 PM

The black AU looks like it needs either a clear coat or a rub back and cut'n'polish.

Feathers · 26-01-2006, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971

heres mine, not to bad will have to paint again.

Were you aiming for a matt finish?

apolloxbgt · 26-01-2006, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brenx

The black AU looks like it needs either a clear coat or a rub back and cut'n'polish.

Looks very dry on the roof and bonnet,this is what happens when you dont keep the gun at a consistant speed and distance.It was ballsy to have a go on your au though.

foxtrot · 27-01-2006, 10:14 AM

Should I sand my car back after the primer or the paint.. ie before the clear coat

or just prime, paint, clear coat and then worry about it

Im doing it this weekend! (I HOPE)

Armageddon Designs · 27-01-2006, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrot

Should I sand my car back after the primer or the paint.. ie before the clear coat

or just prime, paint, clear coat and then worry about it

Im doing it this weekend! (I HOPE)

Primer, sand, paint, clear coat then sand. What colour are you doing?

foxtrot · 27-01-2006, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armageddon

Primer, sand, paint, clear coat then sand. What colour are you doing?

Pearl Green.. Metallic

Ford code K8

Cheers for the order

Armageddon Designs · 27-01-2006, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrot

Pearl Green.. Metallic

Ford code K8

Cheers for the order

Definantly do not sand between colour and clear then!

EDManual · 27-01-2006, 03:51 PM

if it is a solid colour (not metalic) though you could sand between it and the clear to fix any little runs or whatever, right?

Armageddon Designs · 27-01-2006, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDManual

if it is a solid colour (not metalic) though you could sand between it and the clear to fix any little runs or whatever, right?

Yep, only sand on solids between colour and clear.

kaytonk · 30-01-2006, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrot

who is bitwaity .. can you give me a link to his forum thingo!!!?? is he located on the sunny coast??

Sorry, have been flat out at work. pm big_waity here http://www.fordforums.com.au/private...wpm&userid=737

We are in Maryborough (1 hour north of gympie). Waity isnt a painter either, but he knows a guy does it as a hobby.