Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Keen to hear about the dab dab. My bowdens shagtastic wash pad is getting a bit second hand looking.

I believe there is a wash media thread in the car care forum that I'll also browse.

I've mostly used TRC Cyclone and Cyclone Ultra wash media for the last 5 - 6 years. The standard size is more manageable, but I do like the 10X versions for larger vehicles.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...fiber-wash-pad
https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...43065039093975
https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...crofiber-towel


I also have a couple from Microfiber Madness, the DeliPad and IncrediPad. To be honest, they are little over priced.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...ess-incredipad
https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...ess-delipad-xl

Wash media thread here -
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11499496

[fordomatic]

I love the DabDab, holds the suds really well.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie GS Green Star and Koch Chemie PO Pol Star

I’ve decided to highlight these as a pair. I suspect many don’t know where or when to use these two similar looking products.

PO Pol Star-

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...antara-cleaner

Pol Star is a dedicated textile cleaner which was primarily designed for fabric, carpet and leather. It can also be used on Alcantara and suede materials. Overall, I’ve found Pol Star to be an excellent general interior cleaner as well, meaning it could be a one-stop-shop interior solution.



What I like about Pol Star is the pH neutral formula, so it’s safe to use across multiple interior surfaces compared to an alkaline all-purpose cleaner. It’s also highly dilutable, meaning that 1-litre bottle will last you for years! Koch Chemie recommend dilutions between 5:1 for heavy cleaning, right out to 20:1 for light duties. I tend to have it mixed pretty strong at 6:1.

I originally bought this for its carpet and fabric cleaning abilities as I didn’t have such a product in my arsenal. I’ve since found it to be an exceptional leather cleaner, especially dealing with un-maintained vehicles that require the use of a lot of product, Pol Star’s economy makes a lot of sense in that regard. Teamed with the VLB brush or a medium leather brush, its an extremely capable leather cleaner.











Another aspect I love about Pol Star is how it will lather up under agitation when using a brush or scrub pad. This aspect helps when it comes time to wipe off the product/dirt emulsion. You can also put Pol Star in a small finger pump foamer, which can be useful when dealing with Alcantara or suede as it prevents oversaturation of the material.



Something to remember when cleaning fabrics is that the removal of the cleaning solution is as important as the cleaning solution itself. If you fail to remove this chemical/dirt emulsion, well the dirt doesn’t actually go anywhere, rather you’ve just moved it around. Usually, you follow with a clean, damp towel to lift this emulsion into the towel, but extractors, steam or a wet-dry vacuum can also be used.

GS Green Star –

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...mie-green-star

Green Star is one of the many all-purpose cleaners in the KCx lineup. With a pH value of 12.5, this product is considerably stronger than the pH neutral Pol Star. While Green Star can be used for interior cleaning, I would suggest restricting it’s use to exterior surfaces due to that alkaline nature. KCx even suggest using it as a workshop floor cleaner as well.



Green star is phosphate and solvent free and will easily break down and lift away dirt, oil and other greasy substances. It also contains corrosion inhibitors, making it safe for a variety of metal materials. Like Pol Star, Green Star is highly concentrated and can be used at the following dilutions -

Minimum dilution: 3:1
Automotive exterior: 5:1 - 30:1
Automotive interior: 10:1 to 20:1
Workshop and industrial floors: 40:1 to 120:1



For me, I don’t use a lot of APC. In fact, I probably use it more to clean my cleaning tools than I do cleaning cars. Thing is, when I do use APC, I want it to pack a punch. For that reason, I have Green Star mixed at 6:1 and use it for engine bay cleaning, removal of tyre dressings from my brushes and general surface cleaning. What I love most about Green Star is how it lathers up under agitation, which is both a practical and phycological thing, to me, it just makes it look and feel like you are achieving something.



I know many use it for interior cleaning. I prefer not to use it on interiors as alkaline products like this can be too harsh on sensitive materials, and frankly, pH neutral interior cleaners do everything I need without posing that risk.

For professionals, an all-purpose-cleaner like Green Star would be a staple of their routine. Why? Because they can buy one product, then mix it up at a couple of dilution rates to serve multiple roles, thus negating the need to stock different products. This could include the following -

- Pre-treating dirty lower panels
- Tyre cleaning
- Wheel Cleaning
- Bug removal
- Interior cleaning
- Engine bay cleaning
- Wheel arch cleaning
- Added to a pH neutral soap to create a decon/strip soap
- General workshop/floor cleaning



Final Thoughts -

Hopefully that explains the difference between these two. While you can interchange these products, I think there are benefits to having both. For example, I would never clean leather with Green Star, but then I would never use Pol Star to clean tyres. Both are non-scented, meaning they are purely designed to get the job done without fuss or fanfare.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie GUF Gummifix

I love super-specific products like this! Gummifix was designed to provide protection and enhancement to plastic surfaces that are prone to becoming slippery. Where would this be necessary? The most obvious would be rubber all-weather floor mats and cargo trays, or even SUV/Ute side steps with a plastic or rubberised footing. When these area’s are treated with a typical rubber and plastic dressing, this can make these surfaces a slip hazard.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...r-plastic-care



Gummifix is not unlike isopropanol alcohol in how it smells and acts. The beauty of the product is how it flashes away to provide a subtle enhancement without creating slickness. I will say though, if you want a more noticeable before and after, then this probably isn’t the product for you. In which case, I’ve found P&S Swift to provide more enhancement while remaining slip free. Having said that, I’ve found all rubber mats to respond differently, so use these suggestions as a guide not gospel.

How To Use -

The first thing you need to do before applying Gummifix is to thoroughly clean the surface. Sticking with the Koch Chemie theme, this would be a great use for Green Star. Personally, I much prefer to use Mckee’s Floor & Cargo Mat Cleaner. I don’t know why, but after using a variety of APC’s and even tyre cleaners, this McKee’s product is the best I’ve found for the job.

1. Remove the mats from the vehicle, shake off the debris, then rinse.

2. Apply your cleaner generously, then scrub with a firm brush. I’ve found the medium stiffness Detail Factory tyre brush to be a perfect pairing here.





3. Thoroughly rinse, then dry. You can use your blower here, but I just put the mat in the sun while I clean the rest of the vehicle, but the time you are ready to put the mats back in the car, they are usually dry by that stage.

4. Working with a clean and dry mat, apply Gummifix. You can spray it directly and work in with a towel, or add to an applicator and spread across the surface. I’ve found you need to be generous with the product to get consistent coverage, especially if you have a surface like these Maxtrac items pictured here.

5. Once applied, allow to dry. Gummifix flashes away and self levels, but you can go back with a towel to remove any high spots if you wish.





Usage Notes –

- When it comes to cleaning rubber mats, I think the combination of the McKee's with the specific bristles of the Detail Factory brush make the difference here.

- I tend to prefer spraying directly onto the mat and working in with a towel, this seems to provide superior coverage. However, you can also use a foam or microfiber applicator, or even a brush.

- Koch Chemie ship this product with a dispensing bottle insert, which would suit the brush or applicator application method. You can also remove the stopper to fit a spray head, but you need to order that separately or use one you already have.

- Speaking of spray heads, this product kills them so choose wisely. I ruined a nice Kwazar spray head, which also turned the soft rubber pickup tube rock hard. It even killed the Koch Chemie spray head. Therefore, I’d use a cheap spray head knowing you will need to replace it often, and/or empty the sprayer back into the bottle and run some water through to purge the lines.

- Know that this product has a strong IPA aroma, so I’d apply in a well-ventilated area. If you can, let the product fully dry before re-installing the mats.

- Know that the finished result is an “as new” appearance. If you are looking for something more prominent, then consider using Capro Perl at 6:1 (heavily diluted) or P&S Swift, both remaining slip-free.

- You can also use Gummifix for refreshing the appearance of your pedals.

Final Thoughts -

Gummifix is not a product everyone will need. However, if you have rubber floor mats, I think its well worth having both this and the McKee's cleaner on hand.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie All-round Surface Cleaner ASC

As the name suggests, ASC was designed to be used across multiple interior and exterior surfaces. Compared to the surfactant heavy cleaners such as Pol Star or Green Star, ASC is much milder and will deliver a streak-free finish.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...er-specialised



Looking at the SDS, ASC has an alcohol formula, which helps deliver a clean and clear finish where others would leave behind a streaky residue. ASC would be similar to other interior detailers such as Carpro InnerQD, Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer and Gyeon Interior Detailer. As such, don't expect high levels of cleaning ability, these products are for maintaining interiors. And unlike those, ASC doesn't contain anti-static or UV inhibitors.

The main drawcard though is the streak-free results. I've found ASC great on glossy trims such as piano black, glossy woodgrain, painted trim accents and even infotainment screens. ASC is ideally suited here as it will easily lift dust and fingerprints into your towel, before flashing away to a streak free finish. Koch Chemie also recommend using ASC when cleaning around switches and buttons as it will flash-dry and won't cause damage to electrical connections if you were a little heavy handed. They also say you can use it on glass and mirrors, and its safe for use on leather and Alcantara. All accompanied by that classic KCx scent.



How To Use -

ASC is a ready to use product, be that in the small 500ml bottle or the large 10-litre container. Application is a simple spray and wipe procedure, the ability to flash away means you don't have to be precise with it. Apart from that, there isn't much else to say, other than the following tips......................

- You can spray direct or into a towel. I like to load up a towel with multiple sprays, then wipe over the areas needing attention. This way you better control where it goes.

- Know the limitations of ASC. If your interior is filthy dirty, then ASC won't do a lot for you. In which case, you would be using Pol Star or similar.

- If you have needed more serious cleaning with something like Pol Star, ASC can still be beneficial in finishing off those streak-prone glossy surfaces or screens.

- ASC is a great household/office cleaner as well, in particular cleaning/dusting computer and TV screens, stainless steel and glossy benchtops ect.



Final Thoughts -

I think a lot of people get hung up on needing an interior cleaner, when in fact most only need something like ASC to maintain interiors. I shudder when I read of people wiping down their interior with APC on a weekly basis to remove a fine layer of dust. In those situations, a product like ASC is all you need.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie Motorplast MP

This is another one of those in-demand products from Koch Chemie that was very hard to get for a while there, and when it returned, it commanded a $30 price premium. Since then, the price softened but was still too expensive for what it was. Now though, at $25.95, Motorplast is back in the game.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-bay-conserver



What Is Motorplast?

Motorplast is what Koch Chemie call an "engine bay conserver"..................in other words, a water-based dressing for your engine bay that will deliver an as-new look. It can be used on a dry surface, however it has the ability to displace water on wet surfaces. In that regard, its perfect to use after cleaning your engine bay, more on that shortly.

Motorplast is heat resistant up to 250 degrees C, the elastic-like film able to breath with temperature fluctuations. Unlike some dressings, once dry Motorplast will prevent dust attraction and adhesion. While primarily beneficial to plastic and rubber surfaces, it will also protect metal from corrosion and other environmental factors. The product also has a distinctive scent that seems to be a crowd pleaser.



How To Use -

You can apply Motorplast on wet or dry surfaces, but its quicker and easier to apply directly after cleaning and while the engine bay is still wet. For the full process, check out the following thread -

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11497980

1. Start by cleaning, or at the very least, rinse the engine bay.



2. Once clean and while still wet, spray Motorplast generously across the entire engine bay. Don't worry about getting it on painted/metal surfaces, it won't harm these areas or look greasy.



3. Optional, grab your blower or compressed air to distribute excess water and dressing. I've found this super helpful in getting dressing into the various ribbed and intricate areas without having to mess about with brushes and towels.



4. Close the bonnet, job done.



Usage Notes -

- The best part of Motorplast is how it self-levels when applied to a wet surface. This means you don't have to be super specific with its application, just spray generously and close the bonnet.

- When applying, you are aiming for generous coverage.





- You may need to return with a towel a few hours later to level off any high spots.

- Motorplast will protect and enhance rubber, vinyl and plastic surfaces including engine covers, hoses, fuse boxes, intakes, scuttle panels ect.

- The best time to clean and dress an engine bay is BEFORE washing the rest of the vehicle. You WILL get APC or soap on the surrounding outer paintwork and glass, likewise the Motorplast. You don't want either on you paint AFTER cleaning the exterior.

- I've found Motorplast to be on the glossier side, which may or may not be to your taste. I suppose it can be diluted, but compared to alternatives, the beauty of Motorplast is the RTU format.

- Suitable alternatives to Motorplast would be Capro Perl, Meguiar's Hyper Dressing and P&S Dynamic or Natural Finish. However, I've found Perl doesn't self-level as well as Motorplast or Hyper Dressing.

- Probably not an obvious one, but I also use it on my lawn mowers.....................





Final Thoughts -

When Motorplast was priced beyond $50 a few years ago, I'd say there were plenty of cheaper alternatives on the market that would do the same job for much less. However, now that its a shade over $25, Motorplast is a worthy contender. I personally prefer Hyper Dressing, mainly for its ability to provide a more subtle finished look. But if you like that richer look, Motorplast is your product.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie Top Star TS

Up until a few years ago, I would apply interior dressings on a regular basis. I'm not sure how I discovered it, but my favorite became 303 Protectant for its barely-there appearance. For some reason, I also found it easier to work with compared to the alternatives, it spreading easier and didn't leave streaks.

However, once I started using interior detailers instead, which also contain UV inhibitors, I fell out of the habit of applying specific interior dressings. Products like Carpro InnerQD, P&S Swift and ADS Pilot do two jobs in one, removing dust and fingerprints (cleaning) and leaving something behind (protection). So why I am I highlighting a dedicated interior dressing?

Because they still have a place. While the interior detailers contain UV protection and dressing potential, its only very mild. On the UV front, on a garage queen parked under cover for most of its life, the need for a heavier dressing isn't always needed. However, if you have a daily drive parked outdoors for most or all of its life, having something more substantial on the interior plastics is probably a good idea..............especially in summer.

And so, we arrive at Koch Chemie Top Star.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-plastics-care



What is Top Star?

Koch Chemie Top Star is a product that can be used to dress and protect a range of interior surfaces. Plastic, vinyl and rubber surfaces will all benefit from regular applications of Top Star, think rubber seals, dashboards, door trims, center consoles, steering wheels and even artificial leather.

Koch Chemie suggest Top Star can be used as a combined cleaner and protectant, which would be fine on a lightly dusty interior, but you really should clean separately before application.

Once treated, Top Star leaves behind UV inhibitors and anti-static properties. I'd describe the finish to be a natural to satin sheen appearance, which provides a more noticeable result than 303. The scent is consistent with other KCx interior products, a subtle fresh fragrance.



How To Use -

Top Star is a very runny liquid, as such you have options when it comes to application. The product can be sprayed or via the supplied dispenser cap. For spraying, you will need to remove that dispenser cap from the neck of the bottle. Top Star can be applied using a folded towel or microfiber brick.

1. Ensure you are working with a clean, dry surface. Use something like the previously mentioned ASC or Pol Star for example.

2. Lightly shake the bottle before opening.

3. Prime your towel or applicator with Top Star by spraying or dispensing.

4. Work the product over the areas to be treated. I've found Top Star offers excellent coverage, so only small additional amounts will be needed as you work around the interior.

5. Top Star will generally evaporate and self-level, but you can help things along with a separate dry towel if you like. On glossier surfaces, you may need to wipe over these areas to remove streaks.



Application Notes -

Top Star is very forgiving to use, so there isn't much to highlight here.

- If you intend on spraying Top Star, KCx don't supply it with a spray head. You can buy these separately, either from KCx or elsewhere. The KCx ones are nothing special, just a chemical resistant Canyon. Just make sure the tube is long enough for the tall KCx bottles.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...42181464227929
https://detailcentral.com.au/chemica...nt-spray-gray/
https://melbournecleaningsupplies.co...hoCvqUQAvD_BwE

- I prefer to apply Top Star with a microfiber applicator brick as it offers more control. Foam applicators can also be used, but a short pile microfiber applicator will spread the product more evenly and help prevent streaking. I like the TRC Pearl applicators and the Carpro/Gyeon/Maxshine finger mitts.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...licator-5-pack
https://www.detailstore.com.au/colle...pplicator-2-pk
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...c9418300&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...03a8d531&_ss=r

- I also tend to use the supplied dispenser cap.

- Koch Chemie don't provide a longevity for Top Star other than "long lasting". I'd say expect 2 - 3 months, just depends how much sunlight the vehicle is subjected to.

- Treated surfaces tend to take on some slickness, so probably don't apply to the steering wheel rim, gear shifter, floor mats and pedals.



Final Thoughts -

Top Star makes most sense for daily drivers exposed to a lot of summer sunlight. 303 is still a benchmark in this field if you want a completely OE-look, while Top Star will give some additional enhancement.

[Trendseeker]

What do you recommend for the steering wheel?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Trendseeker

What do you recommend for the steering wheel?

Leather or plastic?

For plastic steering wheel rims, I just use an interior detailer like Carpro InnerQD, ADS Pilot, P&S Swift. The thing is, you could probably just use Top Star but KCx are showing caution as they wouldn't want a lawsuit on their hands.

For leather, I will use either ColourLock Leather Shield (for leather up to 3-years old) or Protector (for leather over 3-years).

On seats, your clothing at least provides a barrier between your skin and the leather surface. However, leather steering wheels require constant upkeep to remove skin oils and grime that become fused to the leather surface, it doesn't take long for a steering wheel to become shiny. Because of that grime and the need to regularly clean them, you will need to reapply your protectant after each clean. The protection does however give you more time between deep cleans.

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie Fresh Up FU

I wonder if the Germans knew what they were doing when they gave this product it's abbreviated name? Anyway....................

Koch Chemie Fresh Up is a product designed to refresh the smell of vehicle interiors. It would be easy to assume that Fresh Up is simply an air freshener, and in that regard, it certainly instills a pleasant, fruity aroma. What separates Fresh Up from a basic interior scent is how it targets odors by neutralizes them instead of just covering them up.

Koch Chemie suggest Fresh Up "encapsulates odor molecules", in turn "eliminating them and making them ineffective". In other words, its a deodorant for your car. Fresh Up is said to eliminate unpleasant smells caused by pets, cigarettes or anything leaving an unusual odor behind (spilled food and beverage). In addition to car interiors, it can also be used on caravans, boats and household areas.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...our-eliminator



How To Use -

Fresh Up is intended to be used after cleaning as a final step. Sometimes despite extensive cleaning, an odor will remain because the chemicals haven't broken down certain bacteria molecules. Fresh Up in turn helps neutralize what remains.

1. Clean the interior or affected areas.

2. Fresh Up is typically sprayed directly onto affected surfaces, be that carpet, fabric or plastic surfaces. Mist Fresh Up across the area, aiming for a consistent light coverage, no need to soak things down with it.

3. Allow to dry.



Usage Notes -

- Fresh Up is ready to use and dilution is not recommended, you need full strength to do its job effectively.

- Know that sometimes an odor will remain due to a lack of product coverage. This would apply to odors coming from the HVAC system or other hard to reach areas. In those situations, you may need an ozone machine.

- Fresh Up is not supplied with a spray head, common to the white bottle Koch Chemie line. This is because the brand was/is primarily focused on the professional user who would have a stock of spray heads and/or bottles to use with these products with.



- I've found this is another product that kills spray heads. The KCx canyon sprayer will work, but I'd purge the chemical out of the spray head after each use, or be prepared to swap spray heads as needed.

- Great to have on hand if you have children or pets.

- Usually, interior odors will reside in the carpets and fabric seats. I like to reset an interior by misting Fresh Up on the carpets and floor mats after vacuuming and cleaning the interior.

- You would also use Fresh Up after removing stains caused by food or drink. Clean with Pol Star, blot dry with a towel or vacuum, then mist Fresh Up to kill any remaining odor-causing residue.



Final Thoughts -

This is not a product I use often, mainly on the occasional customer car. But if you have pets and children (the same thing really) or use your car as a mobile cafe, then Fresh Up will inevitably prove its worth.

[DFB FGXR6]

Anyone on the Waxit email list would have seen this drop today...................

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-mini-polisher

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-polisher-copy



https://www.facebook.com/reel/2638634546327363

Sandro alluded to something big coming from ShineMate, and this is kinda where I suspected they would be going. Listening to it run, the new EB-212 sounds very smooth, not quite Mirka smooth but not for off.

I've been sitting on the fence regarding a 3-inch battery powered polisher for a while now. I have the EB351 3/12, but I find it too bulky for such a small pad. I also have the Rupes LHR75, which so lovely to use, but the air hose does limit its flexibility.

Looking at the options available, the Rupes HLR75 was on top of the list, but after using it at Waxit last year I found it rough as guts. The Mirka is clearly the best, but way too expensive. The Flex PXE-80 doesn't appeal for the same reasons as the EB210............they are a jack of all trades, master of none. I also got a chance to use the EB210, but I didn't like it.

So, is this EB212 the Goldilocks' of battery powered 3-inch machines..............a happy blend of size, torque and price. I think I want one!

[stannoplan]

Originally Posted by prydey

Keen to hear about the dab dab. My bowdens shagtastic wash pad is getting a bit second hand looking.

I believe there is a wash media thread in the car care forum that I'll also browse.

Prydey, try the Rag Company CYCLONE ULTRA WASH PADS are easily the best I have used. holds the soap, soft, right size. Nestie Detailing has them in stock, on special, if u need an excuse for a drive. So good I bought 3 to give away to my friends.

https://nestiedetailing.com.au/produ...ltra-wash-pad/

[DFB FGXR6]

The following comparison I did for Mustang7g..........................

I've tried to show the size difference between these TRC, Microfiber Madness and Carpro wash pads. Of these, the standard Cyclone Ultra is my preferred size.

These two are the TRC Cyclone Ultra and TRC Cyclone Ultra 10X..........................

Cyclone Ultra - 15cm x 20cm
Cyclone Ultra 10X - 26cm x 26cm



These two are the Cyclone Ultra and Microfiber Madness IncrediPad.....................

Cyclone Ultra - 15cm x 20cm
Incredipad - 16cm x 21cm



This is the Cyclone Ultra and Carpro Dab Dab, the main difference is the thickness of the pad................................

Cyclone Ultra - 15cm x 20cm (5cm thickness)
Carpro Dad Dab - 15cm x 20cm (3cm thickness)



Ultra, Ultra 10X and Dab Dab............................

[prydey]

Originally Posted by stannoplan

Prydey, try the Rag Company CYCLONE ULTRA WASH PADS are easily the best I have used. holds the soap, soft, right size. Nestie Detailing has them in stock, on special, if u need an excuse for a drive. So good I bought 3 to give away to my friends.

https://nestiedetailing.com.au/produ...ltra-wash-pad/

Good to know although I reckon driving to Cavan and back would be a similar cost to postage from an online store.

[CyberWasp]

The Gleam Team are asking where they can upgrade their oversized pom pom mits to the latest microfiber.

You should see them go to town on a dirty vehicle with those things.

[stannoplan]

Originally Posted by prydey

Good to know although I reckon driving to Cavan and back would be a similar cost to postage from an online store.

If you buy as many as DFB, then think of the savings.

He also can get/order in 4L of BrakeBuster etc which is where you can save. I normally come home with way more than I expected/needed. Seems my post has caused a rush on them ;) now out of stock. Just call him, he's a nice guy. I like to support local brick and mortar guys when I can, long trip from down south though. Chuck the kids in and go to Austral Meats for some Dickbuns on the way.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Looking at the options available, the Rupes HLR75 was on top of the list, but after using it at Waxit last year I found it rough as guts. The Mirka is clearly the best, but way too expensive. The Flex PXE-80 doesn't appeal for the same reasons as the EB210............they are a jack of all trades, master of none. I also got a chance to use the EB210, but I didn't like it.

So, is this EB212 the Goldilocks' of battery powered 3-inch machines..............a happy blend of size, torque and price. I think I want one!

I'll jump in here and say I love the EB210, it may not be a master but when trying to get into those intricate areas it is more than powerful enough and gets the job done. I mainly use the rotary head but I also use the DA head. I also own a corded shine mate 3" rotary and since getting the EB210 I haven't used the corded one once.

I find when using a DA in intricates areas, it will stall due to the surface areas and angles not being great. So in those areas I use the rotary. But then when i'm doing something like a spoiler where I want a 1" to 3" DA, it's perfect. It's such a versatile machine, just the batteries don't last that long, around 20 minutes at full power.

Most of the paint im correcting has many defects, and is medium to soft. I've only detailed a few cars that have hard paint and I haven't used the EB210 on them as I didn't have it at the time.

If I had the money to get one of each of the new machines, i'd do it in a heartbeat.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

I'll jump in here and say I love the EB210, it may not be a master but when trying to get into those intricate areas it is more than powerful enough and gets the job done. I mainly use the rotary head but I also use the DA head. I also own a corded shine mate 3" rotary and since getting the EB210 I haven't used the corded one once.

I find when using a DA in intricates areas, it will stall due to the surface areas and angles not being great. So in those areas I use the rotary. But then when i'm doing something like a spoiler where I want a 1" to 3" DA, it's perfect. It's such a versatile machine, just the batteries don't last that long, around 20 minutes at full power.

Most of the paint im correcting has many defects, and is medium to soft. I've only detailed a few cars that have hard paint and I haven't used the EB210 on them as I didn't have it at the time.

If I had the money to get one of each of the new machines, i'd do it in a heartbeat.

image

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Yeah, I was probably a little harsh there.

I'm so used to the iBrid Nano which feels very delicate to use compared to the 210. My initial use of the 210, it felt like I was lacking control as its got significantly more grunt than the Nano.

[DFB FGXR6]

The following are two of the many solvent products Koch Chemie make. One is powerful but safe, one is powerful and should be used with care.................

Koch Chemie Teerwasche-A TEA

Removing tar and adhesive residue would have to be one the most tedious and annoying detailing tasks there is. It's also a task that poses significant risk to your paintwork, especially if its been on the car for extended periods. So, having the assistance of an effective chemical is vital.

Koch Chemie TEA is very similar to Carpro's TarX, both in how it works and how it smells. I tried looking for the TarX SDS to compares, but Capro really don't want you to do this because I simply can't find it. So, you are just going to have to take my word for it, both products have that citrus-like aroma and quickly soften tar deposits for easy removal. In addition to tar removal, TEA and TarX will assist in the removal of stubborn adhesive residue.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...itumen-remover

Price wise, a 1-litre bottle of TEA will set you back $29.95, the same size bottle of TarX will cost $44.95. I've found both about the same in terms of cleaning power, perhaps with an edge towards TarX.



How To Use -

My tar removal process takes place after cleaning the vehicle and while still wet. This is because if you need to agitate the affected areas with the tar remover, you aren't rubbing dirt into your paint, and while still wet so you can rinse off and neutralize the chemical. Having said that, the sooner you remove tar, the better, so at the very least wipe down the area before and after with a water-less/rinse-less wash.

1. Clean vehicle as usual.

2. Working small sections, spray the affected areas with TEA and allow to dwell. You will see the tar spot start to bleed, which is your clue to rinse or agitate. I've found a strong pressure washer blast will remove most tar deposits using this method, but if they remain, repeat the process and agitate with a microfiber towel.

3. After treatment, rinse the surrounding areas thoroughly to remove any remaining chemical residue.

The same process would apply to adhesive removal.

Usage Notes -

- TEA is ready to use, no dilution required.

- TEA can be sprayed direct or into a towel. You will need to purchase the spray head separately though.

- This is a solvent, so be careful when using it, and where possible avoid using in direct sunlight or on hot surfaces. Never let it dry on the treated surface.

- Keep in mind these products are a last resort, as in use the least aggressive method first (pre-soak, washing). And yes, they can affect waxes and sealants.

- For stubborn stains, I've found the TRC Jersey Bug Scrubber to help the situation.

- If removing adhesive, chose your towel wisely as you will be throwing it away when you are done.



Koch Chemie Eulex EU

This is a last resort product used for removal of extremely stubborn tar, sap and adhesive deposits. There is no getting around this, Eulex is an extreme duty sledgehammer! It also has a very high evaporation rate, meaning you need to work a little quicker and treat smaller areas. If that reads like its dangerous to use..............well, that's because it is to a certain extent. So, why use it?

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ain-remover-1l



The biggest drawcard of using Eulex is how quickly and easily it will dissolve contamination. There is a risk to that, but then there is also a risk of using a less capable product and having to hammer down on the paint for it to do the desired job. Eulex can be used on painted, glass and metal surfaces to remove the following -

- Adhesives
- Tree sap
- Rubber residue (good for all you tire-fryers)
- Paint overspray mist
- Ink stains
- Oil and grease
- Tar



How To Use -

While Eulex is a powerful product, it's safe when used correctly.

1. Wash the vehicle or spot clean before using Eulex.

2. Apply a small amount of Eulex to a towel or microfiber sponge, then lightly dab the affected area to help soften the deposit. Reapply and retreat as needed.

3. Once the contaminant is removed, rinse or neutralize the treated and surrounding areas after use.

Like TEA, I would be using Eulex while the car is still wet and able to be properly rinsed after use.



Usage Notes -

- Be careful with Eulex! It's a strong solvent that won't tolerate fools, so use common sense and work small areas in a well-ventilated space.

- Eulex can be sprayed, but I don't recommend it. I much prefer to apply it to a towel or applicator for more precise control. Like other KCx products, its not supplied with a sprayer, rather a dispensing cap.



- Do not use Eulex on matte wheels or finishes, you will need Eulex M for that.



- I've removed paint overspray using Eulex to great success.

- Any towel you use with Eulex is going to be destroyed, so choose wisely. TRC Rip-n-Rags excel here.





Final Thoughts -

I think there is value in having both of these. TEA will have you sorted in most situations, but Eulex can be a life saver on those really stubborn tar and adhesive deposits.