If it's not the coil or the dizzy, then WTF?

GraveDilute · 17-09-2005, 09:12 AM

Any thoughts on what is becoming a hassle.
The new car (some know it as the Sunnymobile) has recently had the coil replaced after it died on me on the way to work the other week.
The dizzy was done only a few months ago, so unless I got a dodgy one, then I'm not too sure.

Any thoughts on where to look (definitely no spark, and definitely ignition related problem) before bending over and letting the mechanics ream me for coming out on a weekend?

klawsterfobik · 17-09-2005, 10:01 AM

Are you getting power to the Dizzy? IF so, are you getting power to the coil?

Electronics are fairly easy to fault find, just follow the power backwards til you find it.

More info would be helpful, what kind of car? etc.

GraveDilute · 17-09-2005, 10:05 AM

It's an EA, but has had BBM conversion, so the manual isn't a great help to me at the moment.
I think that there is no power getting to the coil. What's the best way to check? The BBM is in the way

klawsterfobik · 17-09-2005, 10:08 AM

hold + and - ! noo.. dont do that. you'll electocute yourself.

there is a safe way, ive got a feeling if you do it with a multimeter you'll fry it. Any one else know?

**Papa Smurf** · 17-09-2005, 10:15 AM

It is possible the coil is faulty you know? Where did you buy the coil? Was a genuine part? if so, you can get warranty for it. Ask the Mechanic where he got it from. Genuine parts can be replaced under warranty at a ford dealership?

If not, an Auto Electrician is your next bet. There are mobile ones these days

GraveDilute · 17-09-2005, 10:21 AM

It wasn't FORD genuine, but was only purchased a week and a half ago.
I'll have to use a mobile auto elec I guess. You can learn a lot from mechanics, it's just an expensive way of doing so. (I wish I earnt $50+/hr)

BJ · 17-09-2005, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GraveDilute

It wasn't FORD genuine, but was only purchased a week and a half ago.
I'll have to use a mobile auto elec I guess. You can learn a lot from mechanics, it's just an expensive way of doing so. (I wish I earnt $50+/hr)

Are you saying that most mechanics earn that sot of money. You must be dreaming.

**Papa Smurf** · 17-09-2005, 10:34 AM

Comapnies charge that much but the poor bloody mech never sees that much :(

GraveDilute · 17-09-2005, 10:47 AM

True. Also, equipment costs are high, etc.
But, in the end, I still have to pay almost $50/hr.

GraveDilute · 17-09-2005, 12:39 PM

Could this be caused by a faulty ignition relay?

**Papa Smurf** · 17-09-2005, 09:40 PM

Yes it could be. There are two relays that give trouble. One is the Fuel pump one adn the other the EEC. They should be Green and Brown or Black. ? But the Electrician will still find the problem and it is better than swap and change?

INJECTED_250 · 17-09-2005, 10:06 PM

50 p/h must be a cheap mechanic :>:>

CruizinEB · 17-09-2005, 10:11 PM

a mate went to a $29 P/H one LOL

FUZMOBILE · 18-09-2005, 09:44 AM

i advise you check the relays, if your relay is under the overflow bottle its very likely that its rusted and might give you problems, also check your distributor cap, make sure the little button in the middle is still there, i mean the one on the inside of the cap i think its made of graphite or something, that might be missing and might be the reason you dont get spark, but i doubt its missing, otherwise check the cable to the coil is attatched securely, and also the ground, check you have ground from battery to engineblock, also from chassis to engine block.

FUZMOBILE · 18-09-2005, 09:57 AM

oh ye, the lead from the coil to the dizzy cap, check that too, maybe first, i advise you check it with multi meter, pull the lead off the cap and off the coil, and do an impedence test, check the resistance of the lead. also might not be fitted properly. if the engine is turning over but not starting there is a lot of things to consider but a mechanic should pick the problem quickly, otherwise they aren't a good mechanic, eg a mobile mechanic, looked for a problem in my brothers car for 8 hours and charged him $500, and in the end it was a dirty inhibitor swtich, on the gearbox, all he had to do was spray some WD40 on it and fit it back. Since then i never called a mechanic, did everything myself.

GraveDilute · 18-09-2005, 03:55 PM

Thanks to all responses.
I've tried all that I could with the limited equipment that I have, and can't source the fault.
Just hope I don't get a dodgy bloke out here as per Fuzzmobile's post above.

MAD · 18-09-2005, 04:20 PM

One way to check if the pulse is even getting to the coil from the ECU is to disconnect the plug from the coil and place an LED in it. Crank the car over, if the LED blinks its good, if it doesnt, there's an issue. Make sure you have a resistor for the LED or it will blow on first blink.

Have you done anything related to wiring just before this happened? Could be a place to start looking.

GraveDilute · 20-09-2005, 03:37 PM

Car is now at a mechanics and he keeps going on about a loose TFI module "blowing up" when loose.
I admit the TFI module had about 1mm of give, but do they commonly "blow up"?

Tiga_EL · 20-09-2005, 04:10 PM

This is Sundeep,

I remember a while ago (I think last October or something, just before AutoSalon) the coil +ve wire (red with green trace) fried on me, after the wire to the coil noise suppressor slipped off and touched the block. I think we did a quick twist and tape fix up for some reason, so maybe the mechanic accidentally broke the connection while fixing the coil? Check that.

The wire goes from the back of the coil to the small manifold loom plug (I think it's 4 pin). Just see if that's got 12v and go from there.

Sundeep

gtfpv · 20-09-2005, 05:20 PM

the engine relay under your coolant header tank . but i'd put my balls on your rotor button . just change the rotor i gaurantee it.

EASPRINT · 20-09-2005, 06:28 PM

I hope it's all fixed soon mate........I can't see it being anything major.

GraveDilute · 20-09-2005, 10:21 PM

Cheers for all of the advise. If anything, I learnt more about troubleshooting with this thread. Although as with most things cars, an expensive lesson.

The dizzy had to be replaced.
Never completely understood the whole thing about the TFI module "blowing up" though. I'm guessing shorting out as it was "loose" (had about 1mm give tops)
Anyone care to enlighten?

**Papa Smurf** · 21-09-2005, 08:10 AM

More than likely the coolant paste fitted on TFI went dry and that would have caused the TFI to burn out? Possibility. A bit like a Computer CPU, needs Paste between it and the heatsink to keep it cool

GraveDilute · 21-09-2005, 09:50 AM

unblvbl!!!!!!!!!!!!
The car died in the carpark at work this morning.
Definitely sounds like a short somewhere. FKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!

gtfpv · 21-09-2005, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GraveDilute

unblvbl!!!!!!!!!!!!
The car died in the carpark at work this morning.
Definitely sounds like a short somewhere. FKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!

I AM TELLING YOU TO CHANGE YOUR ROTOR BUTTON KAPISH. dont worry about how it looks or scores in an ohm test just do it . then you can pm me and i will give you my address to send the carton of beer to .

GraveDilute · 21-09-2005, 01:44 PM

Problem solved.
Loose connection on one of the fuel injectors was stopping system from sending spark to plugs. Now need to check if the injector is stuffed, or whether there is a problem with the lead