General problems

EA1191 · 20-04-2005, 11:38 AM

It would be very helpful to owners who are new to the car to have a site where common problems would be listed and how they have been fixed.
As there would sometimes be many causes, there may be many fixes.
Some of mine-------
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Starting and cutting out problems.

Starting cold
If the engine turns over fast then the engine will start.
But a problem was that sometimes after not being used for a few days the solenoid was not engaging the gear and closing the starter contacts.
The starter relay plugin pins were not making good contact. Another poor link in the circuit is the 'push on' clip on the starter solenoid connection.
Seems to have almost fixed that.

Starting hot.
One time after running and after a short time standing, the car would not start but after standing for some time it was OK. Suspect contaminated fuel, but maybe not.
Not fixed.

Sometimes after standing for perhaps an hour after running the engine will not start because the computer disables the fuel pump and then depends on the fuel pressure being retained for hours. The loss of pressure is usually blamed on the valve in the pump but apart from leaks in the pressure line, could leaking injector valves cause a loss of pressure?.
A l.e.d. light was connected to the fuel pump terminals to indicate power to the pump when the ignition was switched on. It should run for about 1 second. If it does not light and the engine does not start then the pump relay is operated manually.
That works OK.

Engine stopping when the throttle is released when running.
This is an automatic.
Almost sure this is contaminated fuel. But not sure. It will restart after a few tries and is then OK.
The design of the tank would concentrate something such as water near the pump inlet and particularly if the car is slopping downhill.
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Leaking valve stem oil seals.
A stem seal on No. 3 cylinder began to leak . This caused poor idle because the oil would leak into the cylinder onto the plug after standing overnight and foul the plug. Also think a small amount of oil which would run down the stem would be sucked into the inlet when running.
The oil drains onto the depression in the valve spring retainers and then runs down the valve stem past the faulty seal and through the guide onto the inlet.
The depression in the retainers was filled with discs of cloth layered with 'safe' silicone rubber sealer. Also tried to seal the gaps in the collets.
Seems to be much better but only done a few hundred Ks. The idle 'wobble' was about 5 - 10mm but is now less than one mm.
The car is not used much and runs OK.

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The computer connectors may need cleaning. I have worked on computers and there can be poor contacts for the plugin boards and unplugging and replugging often fixes a fault.
Should the battery be disconnected and it was suggested that the brake pedal be depressed. Then unpluging and replugging the computer and waiting more than an hour should reset the computer and clean the contacts. ??

pepsimax · 21-04-2005, 10:49 AM

the not starting when hot can also be the ignition module on the distributor,,happened to me, once i put new distributor in all was sweet

chelvdog · 21-04-2005, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA1191

Engine stopping when the throttle is released when running.
This is an automatic.
Almost sure this is contaminated fuel. But not sure. It will restart after a few tries and is then OK.
The design of the tank would concentrate something such as water near the pump inlet and particularly if the car is slopping downhill.

This may be a stupid question, but, have you havd your battery disconnected? My ED did this when I had the battery off, I let it idle for 10 minutes so the computer could re-learn everything and it all returned to normal.

pepsimax · 21-04-2005, 11:12 AM

thats a valid point

EA1191 · 21-04-2005, 12:04 PM

The battery is almost new and in good condition.
The engine stopping when running is strange because it restarts after a few tries and then is OK.
Sometimes it happens a couple of times on a trip and at other times there is no problem.
Should clean the fuel tank but that is not simple and the problem is not a worry.
The TFI could be on the way out because I was told the spark should not be orange. Bad sign.??

'The only thing wrong with the EA is the fear factor'
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The main problem with mine is the very poor quality control.
A front wheel bearing had not been adjusted because of a ridge on the shaft.
The steering arm joint had not been lubricated.
The valve to the charcoal canister was the wrong way round.
The screen washer motor pump has a design fault
The starter contacts in the ignition switch is a poor design.
The fact that the fuel pump is disabled when the engine is hot and the engine not running must be a design fault.
The TFI unit earth screw does not have a lock washer. Probably why they fail.
Just some items which come to mind.

chelvdog · 21-04-2005, 12:18 PM

You've also got to remember that it's getting pretty old now. Connections wear out, and lubricated parts, etc are the result of poor maintenance, not design faults. Go over car, bit by bit and get it sorted, then she should be running sweet.

Please note, I wasn't blaming the battery, I was just saying that once the battery has been disconnected, when reconnected the car needs to be left to idle for about 10 minutes to let the ECU re-learn.

BTW, your fuel pump might be shagged.