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Old 17-01-2008, 12:08 AM   #1
fourl6
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Default use standard remote to auto windows down.... (AU2 to BF)

the great hot weather around at the moment gave me an idea... could we instead of using that annoying 2 lock system (first press unlock drivers door second unlocks all doors... make the first press unlock all doors and second automatically put down two front windows... (id imaging with press one wire A gets a 12V pulse with Press two wire B gets a 12V pulse)

Stage One...

the two stage door open is set bye remote so we would need to modify the first press to lock all doors but still have the remote set to the "two Stage Function) - im hopeing this would be as easy as swaping one wire...

Stage Two...

Set the second Press to auto down two front windows...
i - first we would need to make the front passenger window Auto Wind down like the drivers (could be fairly easy as is hopefully more mechanical and hopefully not ran buy the B.E.M. which would enable us two swap some parts between doors
ii - link wire B to the window switch (down)

so at the end this is how it should work...
Remote set on two stage locking:
- Press unlock once all doors unlock
- Press unlock second time selected windows down
Remote set on one stage locking:
- Press unlock once all doors unlock
- Press unlock second time nothing (indicators flash)

Problems...
- that pain in the they call smart shield
- i have a strange feeling that the auto down for the drivers window wont be easy to copy for the passenger window

next step would be to setup a auto up with an override button in the car to leave car looked with windows cracked... but we'll leave that for now....

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Old 17-01-2008, 01:11 AM   #2
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Great idea, but the auto down function is controlled by the drivers side button, not the BEM. Plus there is more than one wire to the window switches - if only one of these activates the window up/down, then the remote idea might work. But if more than one wire is needed, I don't think it could work easily. You might want to check out the Technical resources section up the top - it should have the wiring diagrams for the power windows etc.
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Old 17-01-2008, 01:27 AM   #3
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The technical wiring is actually a sticky in the AU section. Here's the power window circuit. you may be in luck (at least for the down function):

http://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/...cat=676&page=1

For the auto up, you could use a relay with a power timer in it to get power when the doors are locked, but then keep power going until window is shut (say 5 seconds?).
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Old 17-01-2008, 10:14 AM   #4
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I don't know about opening but there is a kit that is/was floating around ebay for auto window closing but a few people weren't that impressed with it, I think Stav was looking into coming up with something better but I'm not sure how far along he got with it.
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Old 17-01-2008, 10:39 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
The technical wiring is actually a sticky in the AU section. Here's the power window circuit. you may be in luck (at least for the down function):

http://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/...cat=676&page=1

For the auto up, you could use a relay with a power timer in it to get power when the doors are locked, but then keep power going until window is shut (say 5 seconds?).

Then there's the issue of eventually getting slow wind up times due to out of aligned window slides ... or sticky rails ... then it will stop halfway up when the timer stops.

The AU power windows are buggers ... my driver's side works like a dream when it rains ... but when it is dry ... it's slow as anything. Even after lubricating the guides it is still slow.
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Old 17-01-2008, 10:46 AM   #6
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Early BA's had this feature..... sort of.

When locking the car, the drivers window would 'auto' all the way down.

Ford bought out a piece of 'plastic', to better sheild the window switches from the door lock actuator.

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Old 17-01-2008, 10:46 AM   #7
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have you used silicone spray? this is the right stuff for the window runners



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
Then there's the issue of eventually getting slow wind up times due to out of aligned window slides ... or sticky rails ... then it will stop halfway up when the timer stops.

The AU power windows are buggers ... my driver's side works like a dream when it rains ... but when it is dry ... it's slow as anything. Even after lubricating the guides it is still slow.
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Old 18-01-2008, 07:49 AM   #8
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Sure have ... I have even removed the door trims and tried to ree-align the window as well ... and sprayed the entire runners as well.

I think either the motor is tired (although works nicely when it rains ... go figure) ... or i need to find someone who can align it properly.
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Old 18-01-2008, 08:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
Sure have ... I have even removed the door trims and tried to ree-align the window as well ... and sprayed the entire runners as well.

I think either the motor is tired (although works nicely when it rains ... go figure) ... or i need to find someone who can align it properly.
my front two windows are exactly the same.

damn slow, and often stick going up. going down is easy.

the rears work like a dream. silicone spray made them worse.

according to chief, graphite powder is the go.
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Old 18-01-2008, 08:34 AM   #10
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Will have to try that next time I guess and see how it goes.
I need to pull my door trims off again to secure my crossovers properly anyway.
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Old 18-01-2008, 08:14 PM   #11
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Graphite powder is definitely the go . I used it on the rear passenger window of my NF as the window would struggle down then wouldn't rise more than 2"(5cm) when I bought the car but after a couple of puffs of graphite powder down both runners the window now runs like a dream up and down. The front was a bit slow too as it drops forward going up but a couple of puffs and it's good as gold.

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Old 18-01-2008, 10:00 PM   #12
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have been doing some B.E.M research using This pic...

so are these the output or input pins???
B3 - unlock switch - 0/1V (Pulse????) -
A18 - Central Door Lock Switch - 5V off, 0/1V on
C8 - is drivers Door Unlock - (does not give a voltage)
there is also Front Drivers Door Feedback B20... what does this tell the bem...?
and C6 central locking feed

but i did notice that the boot releace was a nice 12V-13.5V could use this instead... just wondering for ute and wagon people even though they dont have a boot button if you programed a sedan key to the car would there still be a boot release pin (C7) that would release 12V when pressed...?
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Old 18-01-2008, 11:30 PM   #13
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This Could Also be of Help (BA Auto Wind Up When Doors Look)
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Old 19-01-2008, 12:50 AM   #14
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For sticky windows graphite powder is the best lubricant. Unlike silicon spray it does not attract dirt and have it stick to the windows. Plus you can use it in the door locks and ignition barrel.
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Old 19-01-2008, 01:16 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam.giles
just wondering for ute and wagon people even though they dont have a boot button
my wagon has a boot release button its opens the tailgate....
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Old 19-01-2008, 08:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waggaclint
my wagon has a boot release button its opens the tailgate....
hmmm i thought theyd have a release in the tail gate that would work like a doorhandle ... i guess not..
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Old 19-01-2008, 08:29 AM   #17
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You need a trigger to do power window closing.The trigger to be done properly must be independant of central locking signal or blinker.As these are the only 2 sgnals out from the computer then a direct trigger may not be viable.I think I can do it though. Somehow.
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