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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 07-06-2005, 09:34 PM   #1
Sundeep
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Default Can a EA2 TCM be shift kitted?

Hey guys,

Doug and I got the car running pretty sweet last night and the next issue to deal with arose....the slow trans shifts. They seem to make the engine labour a bit when they drag out. The trans heated up pretty quickly and started slipping, but we gave it a pretty hard time and the transcooler is off as it needs to be re-mounted in a different position (I'm workin on it).

Anyways, can a EA2 TCM be shift kitted? You know, because it's seperate and all?

Also, what's good AFR? Like between 12 and 16 or something? Just curious. We had the WBo2 going last night and the AFR's stayed in the safe range, but the engine pinged up high in the rev range. What can be done to stop this? The injectors in the TB are standard atm, and the Malpassi fuel reg has been disconnected due to it richening up the fuel mix even off boost for some weird reason.

There are probably only a few 'minorish' issues that need adressing now, before I can put it on a dyno and tune it. Not bad for a "Punjabi Kit".

Sundeep

Last edited by Sundeep; 07-06-2005 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Needed to add stuff on...who reads this anyway?
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:40 PM   #2
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u still got no cooler lol, u want 12.5:1 for power and about 14-15:1 for cruising.
i got more than 10:1 everywhere atm. very gassy
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:42 PM   #3
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It can be kitted. Its the same unit the V8's have, follow the diagrams for the V8 kit.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QwikCorty
u still got no cooler lol, u want 12.5:1 for power and about 14-15:1 for cruising.
I have a cooler now :P Hmmm, I think it's running a tad too lean then, might have to try and make use of that Malpassi somehow for the mo. It goes to about 18 on the highway at a steady speed, but I thought this was because of "lean cruise mode" or something.

I think my factory o2 sensor may be slightly dodgy. When trying to maintain a steady speed up hills, without acceleration the car will surge and pick up, surge and pick up like about once every second. Anyone know what that could be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkinshaw
It can be kitted. Its the same unit the V8's have, follow the diagrams for the V8 kit.
Where can I find the diagrams? And how firm would the shifts be, and is it adjustable somehow? Dan's kit was ****ed. Everytime it shifted it felt like the tailshaft or a gear was going to fly through the floor pan.

Sundeep
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundeep
Dan's kit was ****ed. Everytime it shifted it felt like the tailshaft or a gear was going to fly through the floor pan.

Sundeep
The other shft kits are adustable. They werent enough for my car though and they would still slip. The one I had stopped the slipping.

Mine slipped really bad on changes though at first, that trans was ****ed.

Chirping seconds is mad.... :
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:52 PM   #6
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Sunny, check out www.mechanicalforums.com and register ;)

I *still* haven't done mine! Was going to have a 2nd attempt last weekend, but the GF was sick to I went to Melbourne instead & helped her out with shopping & medicine & stuff. So, no shift kit for E-Series cruise :(

My 1st attempt was bungled due to differing intepretations of the diagram (plus attempting making a 2-stage kit by going off the original 1-stage diagram). Got another diagram that made better sense, and I'm just going to put up with a 1-stage kit now.

Sunny, if you want a non-switchable kit (ie permanently on), put an 18 ohm resistor on your pin 29 wire (cut wire, add resistor) and a 1 ohm resistor on your pin 7 (same). If you want a softer shift, go for a 20 ohm (or 22!) in place of the 18 ohm. Don't go much harsher than 18 ohms though as it may trip the ECU or cause driveline damage.

I'm doing the same, except adding a switch. Switches always throw me for some reason though!

-Dave-
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:56 PM   #7
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I can chirp second. :P

Good luck getting it sorted for the weekend. Should be sik! Btw, I saw your mum on my way home from Autobarn Chirnside tonight, I waved. : It was kewl. :yeees:
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghia5L
if you want a non-switchable kit (ie permanently on), put an 18 ohm resistor on your pin 29 wire (cut wire, add resistor) and a 1 ohm resistor on your pin 7 (same). If you want a softer shift, go for a 20 ohm (or 22!) in place of the 18 ohm. Don't go much harsher than 18 ohms though as it may trip the ECU or cause driveline damage.
Wicked. That's exactly what I wanted. I'd probably go a softish hard shift so a 20 ohm you reckon?

How do you put a switch on it? Post the diagram :P

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Old 08-06-2005, 12:01 PM   #9
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I know joel (SWOOP) has a few diagrams of them
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:01 PM   #10
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Sundeep, i wont post the diagram here as its basically copyrighted... sign up at mech forums and grab it....

18 way lean for highway... 14.7 is ideal for catalytic converter operation. Maybe 15.5-16 for 'tight *** tuesday' fuel economy crusing.... but closed loop cruise should be 14.7 and prolly recommended... you, errrr, do have closed loop operation dont you?

12.5 under WOT... if still pings then maybe need to knock some timing out...

Malpassi rising rate reg? If just a normal adjustable then it will richen off boost depending on how you set it... standard injectors I would have thought you'd be looking at rising rate regulator (i.e. FMU) ... ?!?!

Need more details on your setup... how do you tune?
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:14 PM   #11
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Yep, only takes 2 seconds to sign up. I've probably borderline-breached their copyright by saying in text how to make a non-switchable kit.

20 or 22 would probably be better than 18 so that you can A) drive it in the wet and B) not attract attention (chirping) in the dry and C) save your driveline and D) save on chiropractor bills...

I'll stick with my 18 ohm resistor though!!!

I'll show u on the cruise which pins are which ;)

-Dave-
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Old 08-06-2005, 08:21 PM   #12
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Ive got the instuctions, for any eseries if I get a chance on friday I will get the stuff to make em up ill just go and copy the one in my old ED, ive had em in all my auto eseries and never any probs.
but Sunny I dont think its going to bang into gear as my ED chirped and shifted nice and fast N/a but with the 190 odd blown it went softer on changes and the kits hold out longer ,so it kept bouncing the limiter trying to get good shifts.
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:31 PM   #13
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Joel, u gotta show me how to put one in my ED... i got the one from your old SVO still.
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:09 PM   #14
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i would go for the s3/s4 shift kit, same as what was in dans. Yeh i know its harsh, i had one in my eb2 but the tranny was still goin strong. Diff was gettin a bit loose though, but my plan was to replace it with a tightened 4-pin LSD so that woulda fixed that problem...

The s5 mod isnt the best for high torque/power like yours. the 4sp gearbox will fail eventually either way, and IMO the s3/s4 will get more life out of it than s5 mod.

Plus make sure you get it serviced, and the bands adjusted -very important!!)
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:31 AM   #15
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so is there anything else you must do expt putting some resisters in ???
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Old 09-06-2005, 02:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWiZTiD EA
so is there anything else you must do expt putting some resisters in ???
Key in ignition (engine running, not just on Accessory), selector in "D" :P
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Old 09-06-2005, 04:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_xr6
Joel, u gotta show me how to put one in my ED... i got the one from your old SVO still.
yeah thats a switchable one (without the switch) Im not sure how that will go in ed ,I cant remember if there exactly the same ,might be worth giving to mick or sunny as I know that one works with the auto tcm and ill help make another for your ED without TCM, well talk about it on sun
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:43 PM   #18
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Give ya $10 for it John :P

I'll check out the mechanical forums, thanks guys. I got no time to get it done before the meets/cruises so that suck but anyways.

Sundeep
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:05 AM   #19
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no worries joel....thought it had a switch on it! :P

sorry sunny ill slap it in my EA....its ony 2 resistors and wires....
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_xr6
no worries joel....thought it had a switch on it! :P

sorry sunny ill slap it in my EA....its ony 2 resistors and wires....
That EA is gonna be soo modded and hotted up when your old man gets it :dj:
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
That EA is gonna be soo modded and hotted up when your old man gets it :dj:
maybe i should give him the ED and drive the EA :P
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_xr6
maybe i should give him the ED and drive the EA :P
LOL go for it, put the XR front back on it and let him drive the ED... shame he doesnt like it thou :P
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundeep
Give ya $10 for it John :P

I'll check out the mechanical forums, thanks guys. I got no time to get it done before the meets/cruises so that suck but anyways.

Sundeep

I could probably do it tomorrow for ya. Goin from Ghia5L's instructions it's a piece of **** although I'd add a switch like I did with Dan's so you can turn it off. That's easy enough.

Ghia5L - Just a question are the resistors 5watt ones or just 1/4watt. And are they 1% or 5% tolerance?

Oh yeah, and about the A/F ratio's, most of the time it was around the 13-14 mark, up higher in the rev range (>3500) it dipped into the 12's (which was weird) Overall it was a bit erratic, sometimes leaning out briefly. I think some bigger injectors in the throttle body would be the G-O.
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