glug glug what have I done now

PeterAU · 11-01-2007, 10:33 PM

I was cleaning the ISC valve as shown and I decided to spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body. I put everything together and now I now have a engine that goes glug glug like its churning oil in the engine
( inside the car it sounds like a knocking) , when I rev it, the engine shakes a bit. there is no loss in power just worried the sound is something bad

maybe dirt went into the t-map sense?

I have changed and checked
oil
oil filter
sparkplugs
leads
Airfilter

any help would be much appreciated

TwistedEL · 11-01-2007, 10:36 PM

carby cleaner shouldn't cause any real problems but when I clean the TB I take it off first so the sludgey **** doesn't go into the intake.

Maybe you should record the sound... glug glug could mean anything

andrewts · 11-01-2007, 10:45 PM

Glug Glug? Drink driving is against the law!

PeterAU · 11-01-2007, 10:51 PM

I just jumped in the car and tried running it again, the best description I can give you is, outside it sound like oil gluging every time the piston fires and inside it sounds like a knocking sound when I rev the engine it shakes, i thought it could have been on cyliner is not firing but I checked them all.

TwistedEL · 11-01-2007, 10:55 PM

All you did was unplug ISC, remove ISC, clean ISC, give a shot of carby cleaner into the TB and bolt everything back up, and plug ISC back in?

PeterAU · 11-01-2007, 10:57 PM

Yeah that is all I did

GK · 11-01-2007, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterAU

Yeah that is all I did

Ok.

So it was running after you changed the oil, plugs etc?

Then you did the TB and it started the sounds?

If you did all of it in one hit (which is fine BTW) and now you've got the sound, perhaps your plug leads are not on properly?

Try that.

Ok I re read your post and you changed leads too. I doubt the glug glug noise is the TB, but reckon there's an issue with the leads or plugs. Ensure the plugs are inserted correctly in the coil pack and on the plugs.

KUP=keep us posted.

GK

Gonz · 12-01-2007, 12:53 AM

I dont want to freak you out but i did hear once from a ford Technician that you should never clean the TB with carby clean as the chemicals in it removes a special coating it has in order for it to run smooth...you should just use a clean rag as that would be plennty!!

i hope its just a lead or dodgy plug mate!!

a quick phone call to your local dealer should confirm the above, speak with a Mechanic not the service advisor guys unless they came from the workshop floor if not they are just salesmen!!

Gonz.

feebs · 12-01-2007, 12:56 AM

run it for about 20 seconds.. stop it. and feel each exhaust outlet.

One or more will be cold and may help give you an idea which one is not firing??

plext · 12-01-2007, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gonz

I dont want to freak you out but i did hear once from a ford Technician that you should never clean the TB with carby clean as the chemicals in it removes a special coating it has in order for it to run smooth...you should just use a clean rag as that would be plennty!!

A cloth?

Christ, mine used to be way beyond that, 40 grit sandpaper would have been closer to the mark.

Never known a throttle body clag up so quickly, always ran it on 98 too.

PeterAU · 12-01-2007, 07:31 AM

Thanks guys Ill try those things today and report back

StealthAu · 12-01-2007, 07:45 AM

sorry to be a wet blanket, but these suggestions wont help. I've got the same oil churning noise out of the car, but no tapping noise.

FS5 · 12-01-2007, 10:04 AM

how much oil did you put in it?

eXi7w0unD · 12-01-2007, 10:07 AM

where the trottle body in my car,and the isc valve? how do i change the oil filter? whats the right oil to use? how to fill up my brake fluid? i dont think i have any in the car.. is my rear suspension irs? whats irs? would i need a chamber kit when i get my car lowerd?

where can i find these answers with out asking them?

andrewts · 12-01-2007, 10:14 AM

Do a search of the forums?

StealthAu · 12-01-2007, 10:31 AM

The "glug glug" noise started after an oil change when I used (I think, cant really remember) 30w50 which was a bit to thick, after changing oil again to 10w30 after a week the noise was gone.

GK · 12-01-2007, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eXi7w0unD

where the trottle body in my car,and the isc valve? how do i change the oil filter? whats the right oil to use? how to fill up my brake fluid? i dont think i have any in the car.. is my rear suspension irs? whats irs? would i need a chamber kit when i get my car lowerd?

where can i find these answers with out asking them?

1. Here's the throttle body and how to clean it.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...2&postcount=48

2. Here's the ISC valve and how to clean it.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...9&postcount=43

3. Here's how to change the oil and filter.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...3&postcount=35

As for what oil to use?
I have used Magnatec 10W/40 but recently changed to Penrtite HPR 10 Gas as both my AUs are on gas.

Guys use all different types of oil and there is much talk over what works best and which thinkness to use. Magnatec will work ok for your car as a basic reference point but if generally, if your car has racked up a few kays (say over 130,000) then you may wish to use a thicker oil say 10W/50. Most companies make this thickness and it's good to go for a semi-synthetic oil.

AU series 1 used 5 litres, AU2-3 used 5.5. That's for 6's, not sure about the V8's though.

4. Here's the brake fluid reservoir. It's directly above the radiatior coolant tank, which is the egg carton bubbly plastic container with the radiator cap on it! It's top left of picture.

The second pic is the front clip you need to undo to get the lid off. There is also one at the back.

I use Castrol Response (Red Bottle) Dot 4 fluid. I have also used Shell (Yellow Bottle) which is fine for general use.

Undo the clips and carefully place it out of harm's way. Don't put it anywhere near the paint, brake fluid is corrosive and will stuff your paint!

Look on the side of right side of the fluid reservoir and find the maximum mark (it's a line or a dot) and gently pour in until you are level with that mark. Don't overfill, otherwise you may have a spill when you put the lid back on.

5. Other guys will be able to help you out with the IRS questions.

6. Your car may or may not need a camber kit. It depends on what size rims you're running and how low you go. I've lowered my Series 2 SR Sedan to XR height, changed the tyres from factory sized 215/60/16's to 225/50/16's and didn't need the kit.

Most blokes go lower than I did, and have 17inch rims or larger and therefore need a kit to get it all adjusted right.

Hope the info helps.

All the best with it.

GK

peterban · 12-01-2007, 11:25 AM

George as usual a mine of information.
Will replace Max Ellery one of these days!!!!

**aussiblue** · 12-01-2007, 02:23 PM

There are some risks using carbi cleaner (removes a coating on a sensor wire) and in fact CRC and others now make throttle body cleaner that is safe to use.

GK · 12-01-2007, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aussiblue

There are some risks using carbi cleaner (removes a coating on a sensor wire) and in fact CRC and others now make throttle body cleaner that is safe to use.

I guess that would be the oxygen sensor?

GK

**aussiblue** · 12-01-2007, 02:27 PM

Quote:

The reason Ford doesn't want you to clean it is because they put on a clear coating that inhibits the formation of crud. Carb cleaner will destroy that coating and then you have to clean it even more often. The TB cleaners are formulated not to harm that coating and are safe to use on it.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/56...nsitivity.html

**aussiblue** · 12-01-2007, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Do not use carb cleaner to clean a throttle body, use throttle body cleaner only. Throttle body's have a factory installed coating(most of them) that will be washed off be with the more caustic carb cleaner, this will/may cause the throttle butterfly(s) to stick most likely causing a rather high idle condition necessitating the purchase of a rather expensive throttle body.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1204135AAYVkdY

**aussiblue** · 12-01-2007, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Since the early 90's they have come out with throttle body cleaners that WILL NOT hurt the Teflon coating on the throttle body. (DO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER OR THIS "MAY" DESTROY THE TEFLON COATING!)

http://www.masterautotech.com/q&a%20...tle%20body.htm

PeterAU · 12-01-2007, 03:04 PM

the glug glug noise is gone thank god for that, but the engine still shakes in idel and when reving. the big flywheel is shaking when you look at it at low revs. funny thing is the first 10 sec I turned the car on everything was working without shaking and then it started again ( aircon was off)

checked all leads where pluged in ( both ends and in order)
checked all 6 exhausts for heat (all are firing)

PeterAU · 12-01-2007, 03:06 PM

au series II requires 5.5 litres

FS5 · 12-01-2007, 05:26 PM

you tried reseting the ecu?.......

PeterAU · 12-01-2007, 05:44 PM

I'm doing that right now, hope it works,

by the way what is a MAF and where can I locate one on the engine

I tried changing the ISC valve to see if that was the problem and same thing

RG · 12-01-2007, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterAU

I'm doing that right now, hope it works,

by the way what is a MAF and where can I locate one on the engine

I tried changing the ISC valve to see if that was the problem and same thing

MAF sensor (mass air flow IIRC) is on the 8's, 6's have a map (mass air pressure IIRC) sensor. Small black box located on the firewall with a plug going in to the bottom of it.

PeterAU · 12-01-2007, 06:26 PM

could it also be called the t-map sensor located on the underside of the inlet manifold

(sorry I dont know where the firewall is)

andrewts · 12-01-2007, 06:29 PM

Big hunk of metal between the back of the engine, and the back of the dashboard.

Where engine bay meets interior, basically.