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07-05-2007, 03:42 PM | #1 | ||
Digging for avatar
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 240
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Hi everyone, since getting my au1/2 back from from Ford "service" (to get the cruise control fixed, $350 to find a broken wire then $350 to replace the whole turn signal,horn ect , ect, harness instead of just fixing the wire, then the "service" guy tells me how lucky I was : ) the rear door locks wont lock with the remote or the key, when you open the rear doors the front doors unlock too. So does anyone have an idea whats going on? I have a chiptorque chip fitted and am going to take it out to see if doing that and resetting the puter make any difference , is there any procedure to remove the chip? My car has been unlocked since early feb and Ive only known for the last 3 weeks and havent been able to do anything about it, it goes to the mechanic tomorrow morn to get a couple of things done so if anyone can help with some first hand knowledge it would be greatly appreciated thanks .
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07-05-2007, 04:27 PM | #2 | ||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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I would say the worm gear in the door actuators is busted. Easy (temporary) fix is:
1. make sure child lock is off (so you can open door from inside) 2. Remove interior trim on rear doors 3. Remove the actuator rod between the outside door handle and the locking mechanism. 4. Recheck to make sure doors open when using inside door handles 5. Replace door trim. This should mean that your car can't be opened by the external rear door handles, but make sure the inside ones will open it before replacing the trim, otherwise the only way you will ever open them again is by using an oxy or grinder. The permanent fix is to either fix the worm gear in the door actuators (small cost, but takes time), or buy new actuators and fit them (large cost - around $180 new, or $75 scond hand and not much less time). There is an article somewhere in the BA section, I think, that details how to fix them using a drill, superglue and a smallish machine screw.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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07-05-2007, 04:40 PM | #3 | ||
Digging for avatar
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 240
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Thanks for the cheap quick lock the the car fix JC I'll go with that if it is actuators I cant afford new or second hand ones right now, but I suspect some kind of puter glich, it just seems too coincidental they should both go at the same time and I know ford was running all kinds of tests on the thing to find the cruise control problem, Im guessing they put power where it wasnt supposed to go, thanks.
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07-05-2007, 04:41 PM | #4 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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07-05-2007, 04:51 PM | #5 | ||
Digging for avatar
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 240
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Gotcha. Im going to try disconecting the battery for an hour, cant hurt.
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